Two new books capture
Two new books capture the essence of a New Zealand summer, with simple preserves and recipes for casual meals.
the essence of a New Zealand summer.
For many people, a love of the ocean and relaxing at the family bach are at the heart of summer. Food is simple and fresh, and impromptu meals with neighbours and friends are a great pleasure. At this time of year, orchards and gardens are also usually bursting with fruit and vegetables, much of it ideal for preserving. Two recent books have captured the essence of summer. In a Pickle, by Kirsten Day ( Bateman, $29.99), is filled with recipes for sauces, pickles, chutneys and jams, as well as plenty of tips. Day also includes recipes for companion items, such as crackers, biscuits, pastries and breads, and meal suggestions, including tarts, burgers, fritters and salads.
Pickles have become one of cooking’s fashionable items, and more than 40 pages of the book are devoted to a tempting array of vegetable and fruit preserves, all beautifully photographed by Todd Eyres. Day’s recipes for pickled pears, cherries and even strawberries will be useful if you have an abundance of these fruits.
I can’t wait to get some ripe outdoor tomatoes so I can try her slow-cooked tomato jam. This recipe has it all: sweet, sour, savoury and spiced. Serve with everything from eggs to lamb.
TOMATO JAM
½ tbsp cumin seeds, toasted 1 cinnamon stick
10 juniper berries
5 whole cloves
¼ tsp peppercorns
2 cardamom pods, cracked
3 allspice berries
500g cherry tomatoes, stemmed
1 cup sugar
20g unsalted butter
1 lemon, ends trimmed, cut in half and
sliced thinly
1 small red chilli, stemmed, seeded and
finely diced
½ cup Champagne vinegar
1½ tbsp fresh lime juice
½ tbsp molasses
2.5cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and
cut into slices
½ tsp salt olive oil as needed
Place the spices in a square of muslin, then gather it up and tie securely at the top. Set aside.
Combine the tomatoes, sugar and butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan. Bring slowly to the boil. Cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring constantly with a spatula, and scraping the sides and bottom of the pan to stop the sugar burning. The tomatoes will split and release their juices as they cook. Add the lemon slices and chilli, then boil for another 5 minutes.
Stir in the vinegar, lime juice, molasses and ginger. Add the spice pouch and return the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low,
then gently simmer until the jam has reduced by half – about 40 minutes.
Stir in the salt and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the jam thickens – 10-15 minutes. Leave to cool to room temperature. Discard the spices.
Transfer the jam to hot, sterilised jars and top with a 3mm layer of olive oil. Cover with lids, then label and date. Refrigerate for up to a month.
Makes 2 x 250ml jars.
THE SECOND BOOK recommended for summer reading is Margaret Brooker’s At the Beach: A Cookbook Memoir (New Holland, $34.99). The Wellington food writer shares the