New Zealand Listener

Autumn is the start of the citrus season and limes add zing to a host of dishes.

Autumn is the start of the citrus season and limes add zing to a host of dishes.

- by Lauraine Jacobs

The autumn equinox brought a change of temperatur­e, and two of my greenest loves arrived in the fruit shop: granny smith apples and the first locally grown limes. Those tangy apples are always the last of the pipfruit to appear, just as fragrant limes signal the start of the citrus season. Happily, the price will come down and, I hope, we will enjoy a profusion of lime-inspired recipes.

The most common lime grown here is the tahitian or persian variety, a glossy green fruit with an exterior that turns pale yellow as the weather gets colder. Its fragrance is stronger than that of any lemon. Another cultivar, the bearss lime, is a little smaller, but it too has plenty of juice that’s aromatic and refreshing. The two varieties make up the local commercial crop.

Many varieties can be grown in warmer parts of the country. The small green mexican or key lime (of the famous key lime pie) turns bright yellow inside when fully ripe.

Kaffir lime, a Southeast Asian variety with pungent leaves, is an essential ingredient in

Thai cookery – its knobbly skin is strongly fragrant too, but the juice is not widely used.

Some nurseries sell the australian finger lime, which has caviar-like beads of flesh that burst open in the mouth and make an impressive garnish for fish dishes. The calamansi lime or calamond can also be found in a few nurseries. It originated in the Philippine­s and has an orange interior when ripe.

I gathered a bucketful of bearss limes from a friend’s orchard for these recipes and am planning to make lime marmalade, too.

In the meantime, we’re drenching everything with lime juice as it brings refreshing and bright acidity notes to many dishes.

BAKED LIME YOGURT CHICKEN THIGHS ON CHICKEN AND LIME RICE

CHICKEN:

1 cup unsweetene­d greek yogurt

6 sprigs fresh mint

6 sprigs fresh coriander

1 tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp turmeric

½ tsp chilli powder

2 cloves garlic, crushed

5cm piece of ginger, peeled and grated 1 tsp sea salt

1 tsp ground black pepper

1 lime, zest and juice

8 chicken thigh portions

RICE:

1 cup basmati rice

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 cups chicken stock

1 tsp salt

1 lime, juice and zest

Extra coriander, mint and spring onion

for garnish.

Put the yogurt in a large bowl. Chop the mint and fresh coriander and stir it into the yogurt with the ground coriander, cumin, turmeric, chilli powder, garlic, ginger, salt, pepper and the lime juice and zest. Mix really well. Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and add to the bowl, turning each piece so that it is coated with the marinade. Cover the bowl and refrigerat­e overnight or for at least 4 hours.

Preheat the oven to 220°C.

While the oven is heating, remove the chicken from the refrigerat­or and allow it to return to room temperatur­e.

Line a roasting pan with foil and place the chicken on the pan. Roast for about 25 to 30 minutes or until the exterior is beginning to turn crisp.

Prepare the rice while the chicken is cooking. Wash the rice under running cold water in a colander for 60 seconds.

Heat a heavy pan and add the oil and butter with the chopped onion. Allow this to cook very gently until it is soft and golden. Drain the rice well and stir this into the pan. Toss over

the heat so that the rice is coated in the oil and onion. Tip in the chicken stock and half the salt and bring to a gentle simmer.

Allow the rice to simmer covered, for about 15 minutes until all the stock has been absorbed and the rice is tender. Finally, stir in the zest and juice of the lime, taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To serve, spoon rice onto a serving plate, slice the chicken thighs on top and garnish with extra herbs, some shreds of spring onion and lime wedges. Serve a green salad separately. Serves 4.

Wine match: riesling.

SALMON FILLETS BAKED IN PARCHMENT WITH GREEN BEANS, CHILLI BUTTER, LIME AND MINT

200g small green beans 4 tbsp softened butter

1 small chilli, finely chopped

3 limes

4 x 150g pieces of fresh salmon salt and freshly ground black pepper 4 sprigs mint, sliced

Preheat the oven to 200°C.

Top and tail the beans, blanch in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, then drain under cold running water.

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 ??  ?? Baked lime yogurt chicken thighs on chicken and lime rice. Opposite, salmon fillets baked in parchment with green beans, chilli butter, lime and mint.
Baked lime yogurt chicken thighs on chicken and lime rice. Opposite, salmon fillets baked in parchment with green beans, chilli butter, lime and mint.

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