Frozen in time

Ice cream has been around for cen­turies and prod­ucts now in­clude even hu­man milk.

New Zealand Listener - - MILK DEBATE -

New Zealan­ders lead the world in ice-cream con­sump­tion, lick­ing our way through 23kg per per­son per year, but the ori­gins of the cold stuff are murky. Ac­cord­ing to Mark Kurlan­sky, the Tang Dy­nasty (618 to 907) had ice cream or an ice cream-like frozen dessert. One story has it that Marco Polo brought an ice cream recipe from China to Italy.

The Ital­ians, it is said, later in­tro­duced it to Paris – in 1686, Si­cil­ian chef Francesco Pro­co­pio dei Coltelli started a restau­rant called Café Pro­cope, still Paris’ old­est restau­rant and the first to sell ice cream to the gen­eral pub­lic.

In Lon­don and New York, Ital­ian im­mi­grant ice-cream ven­dors came to be known as hokey pokey men, a mis­pro­nun­ci­a­tion, it is thought, of a phrase from an Ital­ian song they sang.

New Zea­land has long prided it­self on its loy­alty to hokey pokey ice cream, but 2016 statis­tics from Tip Top put vanilla in No 1 pop­u­lar­ity spot, fol­lowed by boy­sen­berry, then choco­late. Top prize for large man­u­fac­tur­ers in this year’s

Ice Cream Awards went to Tip Top’s Boy­sen­berry Rip­ple. The best bou­tique man­u­fac­turer ti­tle was awarded to Ginelli’s, for its Black Sesame ice cream.

But nei­ther flavour got the at­ten­tion given to Lon­don com­pany The Lick­ta­tors when, in 2011, it put hu­man breast­milk ice cream on the mar­ket, build­ing on the dis­turb­ing growth in on­line sales of hu­man breast­milk to ath­letes and body­builders. Four years later, it part­nered with breast­feed­ing ad­vo­cate Vic­to­ria Hai­ley to launch a new “Baby Gaga” flavour (pic­tured, left) to com­mem­o­rate the birth of Princess Char­lotte. The ice cream is made from do­nated, screened hu­man breast milk blended with Mada­gas­can vanilla.

“If you think about, it is de­mot­ing women to live­stock,” Kurlan­sky says.

Ice cream was a sum­mer’s day rit­ual for chil­dren grow­ing up in the 1960s.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from New Zealand

© PressReader. All rights reserved.