New Zealand Listener

A wealth of fresh produce yields options galore for flavoursom­e seasonal fare.

A wealth of fresh produce yields options galore for flavoursom­e seasonal fare.

- by Lauraine Jacobs

All summer, lunches at our place will be large but simple platters of salad, composed quite spontaneou­sly and quickly. They will feature seasonal vegetables and fruit bought daily from farm stands nearby.

When we first built near Matakana, there were only three or so honesty stands on the fertile Ōmaha

Flats. One offered heritage tomatoes, another had citrus fruit and feijoas in season, and Quail Farm was run by Marie Claydon and her father, Les. They tended an extensive garden and during the hot months, we ate only whatever they grew – beans, courgettes, potatoes, corn, tomatoes, peppers, fennel, lettuces and more. These were flavoursom­e and always garden fresh, although our fare could get monotonous, especially when I served beans at every meal at the height of the season.

Sixteen years later, that farm stand continues. Marie, with food writer Bernadette Hogg, has also opened Quail Farm Collectabl­es, from where many of the props used to present the food on these pages are sourced. But there are now also many other stalls on the Ōmaha Flats, so my salad options have expanded. Avocados, honey, exotic vegetable breeds, nectarines, strawberri­es and free-range eggs are among the rewards I bring home from my excursions.

Salad platters are simple to prepare with such a wealth of fresh produce to hand. I like to build salads on a base of leafy greens or another main vegetable, such as sliced fennel. Freshly picked herbs are essential, an array of colours provides interest, and some of the vegetables might be grilled or steamed. I will often add boiled eggs, leftover meat or some of our fish catch (ever hopeful) for protein. Nuts provide an interestin­g crunch and texture, and although I try to avoid too much starchy food at lunchtime, leftover pasta, rice or grains from the previous dinner make a good salad base, too.

I keep a range of ready-made dressings in the fridge, including mayonnaise, as there’s no time to make everything from scratch when the beach is calling or there are hungry children and fishermen to feed.

Right now, when the summer stone-fruit season is at its height, peach, nectarine or plum slices add a surprising sweetness and intrigue to any salad. We also have access to fresh blueberrie­s, raspberrie­s and strawberri­es, which, judiciousl­y sprinkled over salads, attract the interest of the kiddies.

CHERRY AND GOAT CHEESE SALAD

1 cup fresh cherries

1 small long beetroot

2 cups wild rocket leaves

2 cups buttercrun­ch lettuce leaves 3 tbsp pine nuts or walnuts

150g fresh buffalo or goat cheese ½ cup mint leaves VINAIGRETT­E

1 lemon, zest and juice

5 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tsp tarragon mustard

1 tsp honey salt and pepper

First, stone the cherries. A cherry stoner is a cheap gadget to make the task easy, but you can also do it by cutting each cherry in half.

Peel the beetroot and slice it paper-thin using a mandolin or sharp knife.

Wash the leaves and dry in a salad spinner or clean tea towel.

Roast the nuts for no more than 4-5 minutes in a hot oven until lightly toasted.

Make the vinaigrett­e by shaking all the ingredient­s in a screw-top jar, tasting to get the seasoning right. It should be well balanced and not acidic.

To assemble the salad, lay the leaves on the platter. Strew the cherries and beetroot slices over the leaves. Break the cheese into small pieces and scatter evenly over the top with the nuts and the mint. Finally, drizzle over the dressing.

Serves 6 as a lunch dish with crusty sourdough or as an ideal accompanim­ent to barbecued lamb, beef or duck breast.

Wine match: pinot noir.

GRILLED NECTARINE, RED ONION AND CORN SALAD

2 small red onions

2 fresh corn cobs

4 nectarines

2 tbsp fruity olive oil

1 soft leafy lettuce

50g roasted almonds a few fresh Italian parsley leaves MAYONNAISE

1 egg

1 lemon, zest and juice

1 tsp dijon mustard

1 tsp sweet chilli sauce

1 cup lightly flavoured olive oil or grapeseed oil salt and freshly ground black pepper

Slice the onions thinly. Fill a bowl with ice-cold water and plunge the onions in. Soak for at least 20 minutes, then drain. This process makes them crisper and sweeter.

Cut the corn cobs into 4cm pieces, and cut each nectarine into 6 wedges. Brush the corn and the nectarine with the oil.

Heat a ridged pan grill (or the barbecue) and when almost smoking hot, place the corn and nectarines on the pan. The nectarines will need only a brief encounter with the pan. The corn needs to be turned frequently until dark golden stripes appear. Remove and set aside to cool. Once the corn is cool, take a sharp knife and cut it as close to the cob as you can, so that you have neat chunks. Discard the cobs.

To make the dressing, break the egg into the food processor and whizz it with the lemon juice, zest, mustard and chilli sauce. With the motor running, pour in the oil slowly through the feed tube until the mayonnaise is thick and silky. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To finish the salad, wash the lettuce leaves well and dry in a salad spinner or by shaking in a clean tea towel. Arrange the leaves on a large platter and nestle in the nectarines and corn pieces evenly. Scatter over the onion and almonds with the parsley, then drizzle over mayonnaise.

Serve at once, with extra mayonnaise in a small bowl.

Serves 4-6.

Wine match: riesling.

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