New Zealand Listener

Waitaki wine

Limestone soils have helped create a distinctiv­e terroir.

- By Michael Cooper

‘ Central” dominates the Otago region’s wine industry, but vines are also sprouting in the Waitaki Valley, North Otago. Since the first plantings in 2001, the vineyard area has expanded to 65ha, devoted principall­y to pinot noir and pinot gris, with pockets of riesling, chardonnay and gewürztram­iner.

Prevailing north-westerly winds warm the valley, but when cool easterlies funnel in from the coast, the temperatur­es drop. Limestone soils – quite different from Central Otago’s slate and schist – help to create a distinctiv­e terroir (ecology).

The Waitaki Valley’s reds are typically floral and supple, with fresh acidity and often a herbal twist. Many believe the valley’s reputation will ultimately be based on its aromatic whites, especially pinot gris and riesling.

Ostler Waitaki Valley North Otago The Cleavage Rosé 2020

Full of personalit­y, this is a pinot gris-based rosé with a splash of pinot noir. Light pink, it is lively, with fresh strawberry and spice flavours, a hint of apricot, appetising acidity and excellent vigour and depth. (13.5% alc/vol) $25

Valli Waitaki Vineyard North Otago Pinot Noir 2019

From Grant Taylor, one of Central Otago’s most experience­d winemakers, this highly fragrant red was hand-picked, matured in French oak barriques and bottled unfined and unfiltered. Bright ruby, it is a stylish, youthful wine, with good density of vibrant cherry, spice and herb flavours, a hint of tamarillo, fresh acidity and supple tannins. Well worth cellaring. (13% alc/vol) $79

Ostler Waitaki Valley Pinot Noir 2018

Designed as a “regional” pinot noir, this gentle, ruby-hued wine was grown at three sites in the valley. Drinking well now, it is strongly varietal and supple, with moderately strong cherry, plum, spice and nut flavours showing good balance and complexity. (13.5% alc/ vol) $35

Tatty Bogler Waitaki Valley North Otago Pinot Noir 2015

Showing some maturity, this barrelaged red has a fragrant, slightly leafy bouquet. Vibrant and supple, it is strongly varietal, with moderately concentrat­ed cherry, plum, herb and spice flavours, fresh acidity and good complexity. (13.5% alc/vol) $45

Black Stilt Waitaki Valley North Otago Pinot Noir 2015

Ready to roll, this ruby-hued, single-vineyard red is mediumbodi­ed, with herbal aromas. It has good depth of spicy, slightly nutty flavours that are showing considerab­le complexity and maturity. (13% alc/vol) $39 l

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Waitaki Valley

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