The artful blender ‘

Leftfield has produced a top-value red by mixing six different grape varieties.

They say life’s too short to blend in, but sometimes being part of a sextet is the best way to stand out.” That’s according to the winemakers at Leftfield (owned by Villa Maria), who recently launched a top-value red, blended from six different grape varieties, labelled The Hatchling.

Why The Hatchling? “We hatched an idea to make the most delicious red wine we could. Mixing merlot, tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, syrah and grenache might sound like a mouthful (and it is), but the rich, silky result will make you wonder why you ever thought single varietals or basic blends were the safest choice.”

It’s true. Most New Zealand wines highlight on their label the name of a specific grape variety or blend of varieties, and the rules governing their use are clear. A wine carrying the name of a single grape must contain at least 85% of the stated variety. A sauvignon blanc, for instance, must be made from no less than 85% sauvignon blanc juice.

This rule is designed to allow blending to improve the final product. A winemaker might decide, for instance, that the ageing ability of a sauvignon blanc would be enhanced by adding up to 15% of another variety, probably sémillon. The aromatic intensity of a pinot gris might be improved by adding up to 15% of pungently perfumed, strongly spicy gewürztraminer.

A wine featuring the name of two or more varieties – for instance, cabernet sauvignon/merlot – must also comply with the 85% rule. But what happens if you want to blend a wine from a multitude of grapes, in pursuit of a particular style? By labelling it with a brand, such as The Hatchling, the winemaker is free to mix different grape varieties and proportions of varieties from one vintage to the next.

Leftfield’s winemakers say The Hatchling “gives bottles from Bordeaux (the world’s blending benchmark) a run for their money” – and fair enough. Cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc are all classic Bordeaux varieties. From a favourably warm, dry growing season, The Hatchling has the substantial body and rich, blackcurrant-like flavours typical of good red Bordeaux, in a fresh, vibrant style, delicious in its youth. l