RIGHT PLACE AT THE RIGHT TIME
DELIVERS BRAGGING RIGHTS.
AIN’T BRAGGING RIGHTS AWESOME? THE OPPORTUNITY TO BOAST TO YOUR MATES, OR RATHER RUB IT IN, THAT YOU SCORED AN EPIC SESSION OR A CERTAIN WAVE THAT THEY MISSED.
It’s a sweet feeling seeing the pain in their eyes no matter how hard they try and disguise it, you taunt them till the point of breaking and some mates do, packing sad’s and refusing to talk to their best friends for weeks, months, sometimes years, simply because they were so hurt. But what you have to remember is life can swing in different ways pretty quickly and you may just find yourselves on the other side of those taunts the next swell or session at your magic spot. Winter was bitterly cold this year but the weather was super kind to us with next to no rain, but come spring and as it is renowned for so did the downpours. Gumboot sales for the week went through the roof and the lawns that had started to resemble the Sahara Desert had now turned to mud. But hey as surfers who ever minded getting a bit wet, especially when you know that fresh rain and lots of it means newly formed river bars of the shingle type, ready to drain inside out and offer up pits before the new swells close them over and turn them back into closeout shore slammers. Well that scenario was something a few of us dreamt of on a few of those nights as
the deluge bucketed down. As the front moved off and the skies cleared in came an overnight wind change and according to swell charts so would a swell swing off the back of that very low that brought all the rain. We had to be on it early, as shingle bars like this can wash away and close over as soon as the river levels drop combined with incoming waves in a matter of hours. Hitting the road at 4AM was painful and the shakes from a far to early morning coffee set in. Reaching the coast and hello, where is the swell? With the charts calling 14 feet at 16 seconds that usually equates to around six foot on this stretch of coast, not dead flat, mirror like! Oh well the rods were in the car so it’s off to the nearest gas station for a burley bomb and some pilchards and at least try and make the most of the morning with a fresh mooching Snapper. Well hours later and with no bites we pulled pin on that idea as well, it definitely wasn’t our day. Like the old days we snuck a look at the weather map at the local shop without buying the paper, the low was deep and intense and there was no way we wouldn’t get swell, we were obviously just to premature out of the blocks like a Jamaican sprinter. Damon Gunness had brought his family away for the weekend and had hired a bach close by to keep an eye on things and was perched up on the hill watching firing reports in every ten minutes. By nightfall a slight lift in swell was evident and we had fingers crossed for the morning. By first light an every so often odd three footer peeled through, slightly wobbly and wide on the bank. Every so often a deep one would drain through but it was a far cry from what we had our hopes set on. After glowing the diesel plugs and mid twist of the ignition to fire up the car and head home, an incoming lump stopped that motion in its tracks. Where the hell did that come from? After watching next to nothing for close to and hour we were staring at a six foot drain pipe that had the lads scrambling for their crafts. Hitting the lineup they quickly worked out that from land while it looked good from far, it was far from good, and super shifty making catching the good ones hit and miss and being in the right place at the right time was key. Within the first hour Damon had already taking the award for the most expensive surf of the year, snapping two sticks after getting caught inside on the triple up dry shingle bar and had
MAIN: BOBBY HANSEN DOMINATED THIS SESSION BECOMING THE MAGNET MAN AND ATTRACTING THE BEST WAVES OF THE DAY. INSETS TOP - BOTTOM: JOHNNY HICKS SHOWED UP A LITTLE LATE BUT BETTER THAN NEVER. THE SHALLOW SHINGLE BAR WAVE FACTORY.