ad­ven­ture time

New Zealand Surfing - - From the Ed -

Ki­wis have al­ways been at the fore­front of world ad­ven­ture with iconic names such as Sir Edmund Hil­lary, Sir Peter Blake, AJ Hack­ett, Rob hall and Graeme Din­gle; all who flew the flag with great pride and suc­cess for this tiny pa­cific na­tion. Then we have surfers, quite pos­si­bly the most ad­ven­tur­ous breed of hu­mans out­side of NASA as­tro­nauts, but then again space ex­plor­ers only went to one place, surfers head ev­ery­where there are waves and ev­ery­where in be­tween dur­ing their trav­els. So if we were to cross a surfer and a kiwi, we end up with US! Kiwi Surfers. Since the birth of surf­ing, Kiwi’s have been fas­ci­nated by what lies beyond the hori­zon and ev­ery point and head­land, and no mat­ter where you find your­self in the deep­est and dark­est places on the planet, in places where you think no hu­man has ever trav­elled be­fore, a Kiwi surfer will pop out of the bush and say “Hey Bro”. Ki­wis have never been the type to gloat and claim credit for many of their ac­com­plish­ments, pre­fer­ring to find the El Do­rado and keep it quiet for them­selves and a few close mates. It is even true that in surf­ing cir­cles the most per­fect waves on the planet found in the Mentawai Is­lands had been surfed by a Kiwi surfer years be­fore an­other surfer showed and then an­nounced to the world that he had dis­cov­ered the world’s rich­est wave zone. Re­cently I had a tech­no­log­i­cal melt­down and upon clean­ing up my files and get­ting my new pro­duc­tion ma­chine up and run­ning, I found my­self sourc­ing a folder of my best work over 23 years. Now I knew al­ready that I and my brotherhood of surfers get to ex­pe­ri­ence and take in places that 95% of other New Zealan­ders have never even heard of, let alone seen. But when I had all these images laid out in front of me, it was a gi­ant slap in the face of ex­actly how lucky we are to ex­pe­ri­ence mo­ments such as this in our lives, mo­ments that sim­ply come about through the love of chas­ing swells and scor­ing the best and most unique waves. You see surfers deep down don’t re­ally like crowds, sure some­times we have to ac­cept that our lo­cal breaks will on their day get busy, that is mod­ern surf­ing and the sport has grown huge, why? Cause it’s so damn cool, and we are the envy of so­ci­ety and now ev­ery­one wants a piece! But in be­tween those days, there is noth­ing bet­ter than tak­ing a gam­ble and search­ing for a lit­tle slice of par­adise to en­joy with just a se­lect few, or on your own if that’s your gig. This search, of­ten takes us to places on the map, where no roads ex­ist, and no foot­prints out­side of the odd an­i­mal tracks lie. These jour­neys are filled with many tri­als and tribu­la­tions and they take us to parts of this coun­try and the world that only few have tread. While ex­plo­ration has opened right up in re­cent years and is cur­rently the cool thing to do, to live off the grid and dis­ap­pear from so­ci­ety, along with tech­nol­ogy like Google Earth, there isn’t much out there still left to be dis­cov­ered, but there’s cer­tainly a lot out there to be en­joyed. I re­mem­ber when I was just a young grom, my reg­u­lar break was Port Waikato on the West Coast just south of Auck­land. Now I knew what we had lo­cally, and I knew what Raglan was like, but look­ing at a map I al­ways won­dered what that whole stretch of coast­line in be­tween held off lim­its to the day trip­per or less ad­ven­tur­ous. So, one school hol­i­day, dur­ing an off­shore medium sized swell, I threw on my back­pack, with my surf­board un­der my arm and set off for over a week, hik­ing and surf­ing my way down the coast solo. I’ve never re­peated that jour­ney but those mem­o­ries of that ad­ven­ture are still so vivid 26 years on, and the waves that I scored will live with me for­ever. I felt like a pi­o­neer and it’s pos­si­ble that some of the waves I surfed had never been surfed be­fore, or even since. There are many parts of our coast­line that are sim­i­lar to this, with a few ac­ces­si­ble main breaks and a heap of coast­line in be­tween that never gets touched by more than a seag­ull or seal. In this job we have spent many years wait­ing pa­tiently for the per­fect con­di­tions and putting to rest the ru­mours of many epic surf breaks, and with the com­pany of some like-minded ad­ven­tur­ers, we have at times been skunked and gone home wish­ing we had just pad­dled out at the usual spot, as we missed out on surf­ing al­to­gether, and then there are many times that we have scored some­thing so unique and fir­ing that we have all gone home float­ing on Cloud-9. Along the way we have also dis­cov­ered and pi­o­neered sev­eral breaks, which when you think about all the years that surfers have combed the nooks and cran­nies of our coast­line, it’s hard to be­lieve that there may be some­thing out there still wait­ing, but there is! They’re still out there, break­ing per­fectly on their day, peel­ing off with­out a surfer to dis­turb their form. All you need is a lit­tle of that spirit of ad­ven­ture and a lit­tle time. Go on get out there, it’s in your blood!

Yours in surf­ing and ad­ven­ture

Cory Scott and The Team at NZ Surf­ing Mag.

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