New Zealand Surfing - - Rising / Grom -

I love In­done­sia; the food is amaz­ing, Nasi Goreng's, Padang food, the spices and cur­ries, surf­ing in board­ies, reef cuts, two-wave hold downs. I love know­ing your gonna wake up with the trade winds blow­ing off­shore with long pe­riod swells and lines to the hori­zon. Full moon par­ties and full moon swells. I love boat trips with mates, they are un­beat­able, scor­ing the clean­est most per­fect waves your lo­cal can only of­fer a cou­ple of times a year, then fish­ing in your down time. I love burn­ing around on mo­tor­bikes with your quiver strapped to your side, and drink­ing Bin­tangs at sun­set on Kuta Beach. Indo also has the friendli­est peo­ple in the world, who have noth­ing but the big­gest smiles on their faces. Then there’s the con­stant laughs with ran­dom peo­ple and sto­ries about new dis­cov­er­ies on a de­serted is­land some­where. The ex­cite­ment of hook­ing up with the kiwi vets like Nick ‘Chongy’ Ngau Chun, a man who knows ev­ery wind tide and swell di­rec­tion for ev­ery wave in In­done­sia. Drink­ing fresh co­conut milk ev­ery day and adren­a­line rushes in and out of the wa­ter on a con­stant ba­sis. Indo also runs on karma big time, so you get what you give. It’s amaz­ing how you get bar­relled ev­ery day, even when the waves are small. Also it means fam­ily va­ca­tions there twice a year watch­ing my girls ex­pe­ri­ence and be­come con­nected to what I have for the past 25 years. In­done­sia means so much to me and I’ll be trav­el­ling search­ing and pulling in for many years to come!

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