why travel?

New Zealand Surfing - - News - En­joy your travel and stay stoked! Yours in surf­ing Cory Scott and the Team at NZ Surf­ing

As a grom I would browse mag­a­zines and be­come mes­merised by these far off places and the per­fect waves that were printed in those glossy pages, but while the ini­tial hook you could say were those waves, I was also in­fat­u­ated by the jour­neys these surfers went through and their ex­pe­ri­ences along the way through foreign lands, the hard­ships and risks they en­dured and the cul­tures they en­coun­tered all in search of a wave.

Sto­ries of tigers, ti­dal waves, pi­rates, ship­wrecks, they all seemed like imag­i­na­tive tales, but for many of these surf travel pi­o­neers these en­coun­ters were real and I re­ally grav­i­tated to­ward that. In my late teens I took my first over­seas surf trip to Bali, and while Bali had been ex­posed to the world 20 years prior, back then it was much dif­fer­ent to what it has be­come now. That was my first taste of trop­i­cal waves, a com­pletely dif­fer­ent culture and re­li­gious way of life. Ac­cess to the cave at Ulu’s was still down a bam­boo lad­der and you still had to walk in down rugged dirt tracks. I loved this feel­ing of surf ex­plo­ration and even in those first few years of my Indo love af­fair I got to surf waves that had never been surfed be­fore.

Mates of mine be­gan to join me on these trips, and while all loved to score pump­ing waves, some loved to party all night, some loved to spend their en­tire trip try­ing to score, oth­ers sim­ply felt best head­ing down to the beach at the end of the day with a Bin­tang in hand to watch that golden ball of flames dip be­yond the hori­zon wait­ing for the green flash. I got it early on, every­one trav­els for dif­fer­ent rea­sons within that com­mon goal of per­fect surf. Yet I had a yearn­ing to look be­yond what was the al­ready known, I was ad­dicted to want­ing to find out what lay across that bay, or be­yond that next head­land, or even on that is­land off in the dis­tance, so I’d trek, pad­dle or hire fish­ing boats and sac­ri­fice a day of guar­an­teed surf in search of my own slice of dis­cov­ery.

I spent years camp­ing out in iso­lated ar­eas, is­land hop­ping and sleep­ing in places that you’d never be­lieve if I told ya. Indo was my base camp where I learnt how to sur­vive in foreign lands. I made a tonne of life­long friends, found out a lot about my­self, and learnt to ap­pre­ci­ate what I had back home more than ever. I scored the most per­fect waves you’ve ever dreamt of, had mo­ments where my life flashed be­fore my eyes and was scared more times than I can re­mem­ber, I was taken out of my com­fort zone time and time again, and while some of these state­ments may make you won­der why the hell any­one would travel to such places, I fricken loved it! I loved ev­ery second of my time as a trav­el­ling surfer and I will cher­ish these days for­ever.

For many just get­ting away from the chills of win­ter is enough, oth­ers if they catch a few waves in be­tween ly­ing on the sun chair and sip­ping cock­tails by the pool un­wind­ing the stresses of life, they feel free. So, what­ever your rea­son for pick­ing up that phone or tap­ping that key­board and lock­ing in your surf hol­i­day, take my ad­vice; open your eyes, your minds and even your heart to the big­ger pic­ture sur­round­ing that in­com­ing wave and ask your­self, does it get much bet­ter than this?

Take a look in­side this is­sue where we feature a few key des­ti­na­tions that have changed my life for the bet­ter.

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