bonus ses­sions

New Zealand Surfing - - News -

You were up early well be­fore first light, prep­ping for a big day! The swell forecast was look­ing in­cred­i­ble and al­ready you could sense that the wind has switched to an off­shore as the bush at the front of home was rub­bing on the win­dow. You know from ex­pe­ri­ence that you’re gonna need some fuel in the tank, so you chow down a big break­fast, head to the car with fresh cof­fee in hand fum­bling the keys in the dark. By the time you reach the beach there’s enough light on the hori­zon that you can see the swell lines. As you climb into your wet­suit, you can see each lump of swell stand up in the wind and drain across the sand bar blow­ing out spray into the chan­nel. Your mates ar­rive to join you and you pad­dle out ne­go­ti­at­ing the in­side shorey and head on out to the far peak. This is one of those rare days that you will be do­ing some se­ri­ous pad­dling and some se­ri­ous hours in the lineup.

Six hours later you are com­pletely cooked, the swell con­tin­ues to build max­ing out the lineup and the wind swings on­shore blow­ing apart the form of the lineup, leav­ing only mushy lumps in its wake. You’re stoked, not only did you score big time, but you’re stoked that its blown out as you have noth­ing left in the tank, all that re­mains in the day is a big feed and an arvo power nap.

But! You get word that the swell has se­ri­ously kicked in, as in beast pro­por­tions. And what that means is a rare wave has been wo­ken from its hi­ber­na­tion for the first time in a year. The phone rings red-hot, “you keen bro?” You know you are, but can you muster the energy and the amp? You de­cide to go and look for your­self, it’s go­ing off its tits!

Ac­cess­ing this wave is a phys­i­cally drain­ing jour­ney, al­most iron­man like. By the time you reach the lineup you’re al­ready run­ning on fumes, but the sight of those waves thun­der­ing down the reef re­leases a rush of en­dor­phins which perk you up. Pad­dle outs are slow, you sit in the lineup know­ing you’ve only go so much left in the tank, but you’ll be patient and wait for only the best waves. Time and time again you tell your­self “Last wave” but you head on back to the take­off for an­other, driven by that feel­ing only a surfer knows. Ya mates head in, so you call time as well and you ride one last wave, which they hoot from the rocks, you be­gin to pad­dle in and they are al­ready pad­dling out, “Bro that last wave was so sick, let’s go get just one more”. Only dark­ness ends the ses­sion, call­ing time when hu­man emo­tion and urge for the buzz could not. You never saw this ses­sion com­ing, and at first you didn’t want it, but are now jab­ber­ing on about how you can’t wait to surf there again. Now you can sleep!

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