making history
she established new zealand’s FIRST FASHI ON HOUSE . NOW, THE ELE GANT AESTHETI C OF VINKA LUCAS IS being CARRIED ON BY HE R DA UGHTE R TO DAZLIN G EFFECT
On the subject of what it takes to make a wedding gown truly extraordinary, Anita Turner- Williams could probably write a short novel. ‘It’s an unquestionably flattering cut, the delicacy of crystal and beaded detailing,’ she declares. ‘It’s the way it moves with the bride as she walks, the sound of it with every step she takes and the way the fabric falls when she’s standing still – best-quality fabrics are a given.’
Vinka Design philosophy 101: make something in a cheap fabric and you’re already behind the eight ball.
Every element of wedding-gown creation – from fabric selection and hand beading to measuring, fitting and accessorising – is inscribed in Anita’s DNA. She’s the daughter of Vinka Lucas – one of New Zealand fashion’s most flamboyant figures – and, having owned a sewing machine since before she started school, the world of snow-white silk, frothy tulle and twinkling Swarovski beads has always been her playground. It isn’t difficult to see how Anita inherited such unrelenting passion: her parents, Vinka and David Lucas, can be credited with establishing Maree de Maru, Vinka Lucas Couture, Vinka Lucas After Five and Vinka Brides. The latter, started in the 60s and now operating under as Vinka Design, is New Zealand’s longest-standing fashion house.
‘Before Vinka, New Zealand was a nation of dressmakers,’ says Anita. ‘She was the first designer. Her gowns were extravagant and glamorous and totally more than what Kiwi girls had ever been expecting or hoping for. She encouraged girls to do different things.’
Unsurprisingly, Vinka’s personal style was one of dazzling brilliance. According to Anita, Vinka had the type of charisma that drew sellout crowds to her annual fashion shows (one of which was attended by Princess Margaret) and the kind of dress sense that won Best Dressed awards at events such as the Melbourne Cup.
‘She would walk in and everyone would look,’ says Anita. ‘She’d go out to dinner in a fulllength gown and bauble earrings. Her hair was always up, heels always on. She’d come to school athletics days having finished her look with the big 60s sunglasses, the oversized hat and the cigarette. She did not blend in.’
Although Vinka passed the Vinka Design torch to Anita four years ago, her stamp of extravagance is still firmly imprinted in the Auckland boutique. A gentle chime of elegant instrumental music deafens the hum of the Queen Street traffic below, racks of floor-dusting chiffon glisten under layers of hand-beaded overlay, mannequins crowned with delicate Chantilly veils radiate ethereal elegance. Framing the display, is a glittering assembly of bejewelled necklaces, earrings, tiaras and bracelets sourced from jewellery designers around the globe.
Connecting with brides, and creating a masterpiece that flatters each bride’s personal features, is at the core of Vinka Design’s philosophy. An array of thank-you cards are propped to attention on a glass table, each one bursting with words of praise, gratitude and admiration. It’s a visible tribute to the connection brides feel with the threestrong Vinka Design team.
‘Being such a significant part of a girl’s special day is a total privilege,’ Anita says. ‘We take it seriously. It’s about so much more than giving them a gown. It’s about taking them by the hand, guiding them through the process and instilling them with confidence. Brides come back and tell us how much they loved what we made, that our creation made them feel comfortable and beautiful. It makes us get all teary. That’s what we live for.’
Born from charcoal sketches that are works of art in themselves, each Vinka creation is a textile treasure. Unique embellishments come in the form of hand-sewn beaded flowers adorning dreamy layers of silk chiffon, or a trail of diamantés encrusting a pair of delicate shoestring straps. The common thread between ensembles? Never will you see a Vinka gown on a bride who doesn’t suit it.
For many women, Anita explains, this is the first time they’ve had a dress that fits perfectly. It’s a ‘eureka moment’ that highlights assets they had never realised could look so good. vinka design earrings,
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NEW ZEALAND WEDDINGS
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Here’s to the future As a child, Anita modelled flowergirl outfits created by Vinka Design.
‘A wedding gown has got to suit one’s body type,’ she says. ‘ When you’re creating something that’s fitting well and complementing your neckline and figure, I don’t see how it can not turn out beautiful.’
Anita notes today’s brides have a more established sense of style. ‘Girls are getting married older now,’ she says. ‘There are more dress style options plus more images and more types of media that cover bridal fashion. They’re well informed, and they know what they do and don’t like.’
It’s part of the reason why, when asked about her favourite era of bridalwear, Anita’s answer couldn’t be more assured.
‘Right here, right now. This is the best bridal fashion’s ever been,’ she says. ‘ We’ve got a bit of everything going on. We can tap into the beautiful beadings and the dropped waists from the Gatsby era. The full romantic gowns of the 50s and 60s. The soft, loosely structured boho look of the 70s. We can zoom into different eras, taking elements from each without being total devotees.’
When Anita dresses brides now, she’s confident they won’t reminisce over their wedding albums with the same retrospective horror their mothers felt looking at soufflépuff sleeves donned so confidently in the 80s.
‘We’re going with simple, elegant lines now,’ she says. ‘If there’s sparkle and shimmer, it’s not vulgar like it was in the 80s and 90s.’
Vinka’s work shown in the past four years of New Zealand Fashion Week illustrates this point. While each collection has displayed subtle twists on annual trends, the aesthetic remains decidedly timeless. Fluid pleats and folds create a leg- extending illusion. Embroidered into an overlay, silver thread creates a subdued sheen. Subtle sprinkles of flowers and Swarovski crystals sparkle under spotlight, a far cry from the sequins and shiny satin of years gone by.
Judging from the talent shown at events such as Fashion Week, her confidence in the New Zealand bridalwear industry is unshakable.
‘I look at international showings and I think we can hold our heads high,’ she says. ‘We’re doing our own thing, and it’s just as beautiful – if not more – as what you see overseas.’
However, the world of bridal design faces big changes: the increase of online dress sales means undercutting is a daily challenge, as is some brides’ decision to commission knock-offs of boutique designs in cheap fabric. No matter how beautiful designer creations are, boutique bridal fashion isn’t an easy business. Anita, though, couldn’t care less. ‘I love what I do,’ she says. ‘When you get such a buzz out of something, it’s impossible to imagine doing anything else.’