ANATOMY OF A SUIT

Look­ing for the sharpest big-day out­fit? Know­ing what sets each suit apart will give you the edge – our no-fuss guide has all the need-to-knows.

New Zealand Weddings - - CONTENTS -

Know­ing what sets each suit apart will give you the edge – our no-fuss guide has all the need-to-knows

FROM THE TOP

There’s noth­ing more im­pres­sive than a well-fit­ting suit, so if it doesn’t sit nicely across the shoul­ders, hang it back on the rack, stat. When scout­ing suits, start off by try­ing a size down. There should be a firm­ness around your shoul­der blades, but not so much that it re­stricts move­ment. The right jacket will hug your shoul­ders and make you stand taller. The tuxedo is still a head-turner, and a stream­lined black suit re­mains a mod­ern al­ter­na­tive.

LAPELS 101

A notched lapel is the most clas­sic lapel for a suit and com­ple­ments men of all shapes and sizes.

Its more for­mal cousin, the peaked lapel, has twin peaks that point to­wards the shoul­ders and help pro­vide def­i­ni­tion to the torso.

TIPS FOR TA­PER­ING

Get­ting a suit tai­lored to your body shape is key for nail­ing a stream­lined look. Bring­ing the jacket in at the sides of your waist will give you a strong line in the shoul­ders, and the chest piece (ma­te­rial in the part of the suit that sits over the chest) will help the suit to keep its shape and pre­vent sag­ging.

LET’S VENT

You might not be able to see it, but it does pay to know what’s hap­pen­ing at the back of your jacket. That’s right, we’re talk­ing about vents. If you want to keep your look more ca­sual, opt for a clean and sim­ple cen­tre vent. Those look­ing to make more of a state­ment can go for a dou­ble vent.

CUFF STUFF

The cuffs of your suit should sit just above your wrists, to give those shirt sleeves a bit of time in the spot­light. This length is es­sen­tial for show­ing off your shiny new cuff­links, too. The four but­tons on the cuff of this suit are known as kiss­ing but­tons and slightly over­lap each other.

PANT PRO­TO­COL

Suit trousers should be hemmed to sit at the top of your shoes – bunch­ing around the an­kles is a big no-no. Slim­cut pants with a flat front of­fer a mod­ern, clean look. Most come with a zip fly, sin­gle but­ton clo­sure and, of course, belt loops.

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