An insider’s guide to... the Galapagos Islands

BEST TOURS: Chimu Adventures are the Latin American specialists, taking the guesswork out of travelling in this neck of the woods.

WHERE TO STAY: The Santa Cruz II’s five- day Northern Islands itinerary is hard to beat. Smooth sailing from whoa to go.

BEST COFFEE: Having endured café con leche (hot milk and instant coffee) in Quito, to finally have 24- hour access to a coffee machine on the ship… muy bien!

WHEN TO GO: Dandy all-year round, it’s cooler and drier from June to November, and warmer and wetter from December to June, though during the warmer season, it’s generally calmer. NOT TO BE MISSED: Our guides’ daily lectures were riveting and included tales of eccentric early inhabitants to facts about animals.

BEST PHOTO OPPORTUNITY: From sea lions and frigate birds to boobie chicks and giant tortoises, never leave your cabin without a camera.