Rediscovering ROTORUA
Weekly art director Mirella Monteiro gets creative in the Bay of Plenty
It seemed ages since I had spent meaningful time in Rotorua, so returning with my partner for an overdue break proved a revelation. And it was every bit as restorative as we hoped.
First stop was Secret Spot Hot Tubs, Rotorua’s latest soaking sensation and the brainchild of brothers Keith and Eric. Located in a slice of bush paradise in the Waipa Valley, Secret Spot’s popularity suggests the siblings’ secret is well and truly out. They’ve set a dozen large cedar tubs beside the Puarenga Stream and each is replenished with fresh water piped from a spring high in the forest. The mineral-rich water is then warmed to muscle-relaxing perfection – an instant cure for two work-weary bods. Affable host Keith highlighted the red button that triggers tubside service whenever you fancy a tipple and he definitely got a workout!
With the late-afternoon sun shining, we headed into town to explore the newly redeveloped lakefront. It’s a phenomenal improvement. Playgrounds were in full swing and every second board-walker cradled an iced drink.
We wandered through iconic Government Gardens via Sulphur Point and circled back to the busy strip of restaurants that is “Eat Streat”. Although tempted by several, we made an abrupt turn into Arawa, mounted a white staircase, and were promptly seated at Poco Tapas & Wine, a vibrant eatery and bar. Chefs Jeff and Tuta have devised an exquisite menu that showcases the best in Bay of Plenty produce. We were drawn to smoked kingfish croquettes and mussels with grilled leeks and Pernod. The upbeat waitstaff were right to recommend grilled courgettes and green beans from the Ngongotahā Valley.
From culinary cloud nine, we floated up to our luxurious nest on the ninth floor of the Pullman Hotel. The Pullman rates five stars in every respect, from its central city location and wonderfully appointed rooms, to the stylish lobby and superb restaurant. Every staff interaction was a delight. I loved our ever-changing views of Lake Rotorua and War Memorial Park, and was sometimes torn between enjoying our lofty haven and getting out and about.
At sunrise on Sunday, we awoke with mud on our mind. After an excellent hotel brekkie, we scooted around the lake perimeter to reach Hell’s Gate, a spa destination for over 150 years and home to some extreme geothermal activity. My spirit hippo soon had me wallowing in a warm mud pool, lathering a thin layer all over my skin and basking in morning sun until the attendant called “Rinse-off time”. Following the herd to
the various geothermal pools, I could feel my skin soften to silk. Beyond us lay a walking trail beside boiling water and mud pools that occasionally erupt to well over twice my height. Walking further into the embrace of the forest revealed beautiful Kakahi Falls, the largest hot-water falls in the Southern Hemisphere.
Mud larking and forest walks also stir the appetite. We had heard about the menu at Eastwood, an upmarket café nestled at the feet of the Whakarewarewa Forest.
Arriving is a memorable experience, such is the majesty of the traditional Māori designs in a dramatic three-storey building crafted solely from timber. We lunched al fresco, admiring the architecture, relishing the peace of the forest fringe, and devouring Mediterranean-style pizzas and salads.
Fully refuelled, we ambled alongside dense stands of century-old California redwoods and surveyed the well-marked walking tracks. Because altitude had become our short-break theme, we opted to tackle the Redwoods Altitude, a 650-metre walkway created from 25 suspended bridges and platforms through the treetops. At the highest point, you’re perched in a canopy 20 metres above terra firma, enjoying a true bird’s-eye view of the forest floor. Next time, we’ll go at night when the walk is illuminated by lanterns and fairy lights.
Further adventures lay ahead on the slopes of Mt Ngongotahā. The first was a must-do gondola glide up the mountainside to sample wines produced by Volcanic Hills. While thrillseekers took to the luge track and bike trails, we relaxed in the VH Tasting Room, nursing glasses of the latest red and white vintages, and drinking in the panoramic views of Mokoia Island. I found the velvety Syrah helped me tongue-twirl the “R”s in Rotorua like te reo-speaking hosts Carmen and Paige.
And we were back the next morning, this time saddling up horses for a 90-minute trek run by Adventure Playground Rotorua. It’s a real eye-opener if you’re unaware that horses have strong and distinct personalities. I had no trouble bonding with Momo, whose nickname is Slow-mo.
Comparing this sweetie with Phar Lap would be like comparing me with Usain Bolt. There was a clear hierarchy in the pack, so we maintained a strict order as we climbed Ngongotahā. Random feeding and toileting punctuated our traversal of a ridge, and dramafree descent. Watching others dismount confirmed I wasn’t the only novice conditioned for an office chair rather than a saddle! But even so, I returned to the Big Smoke feeling like I had graduated with a Masters of Relaxation and truly delighted to have reconnected with Rotorua.
‘Lathering on the mud, I could feel my skin softening to silk’