Central Otago’s slice of Wild West
Cromwell’s Bannockburn Sluicings is a conundrum: a natural landscape that was destroyed by men for food then money, polluting the environment and altering its profile, but is now fiercely protected.
Tōtara forest was burnt off by Māori hunting moa; then, in 1862, gold was discovered at this remote spot. Despite the land being so dry and bare, miners arrived in their thousands to seek their fortunes.
Unimaginable effort was expended in shifting, by hand, tonnes of rock and soil to get at the gold-bearing schist eight metres below that was then sluiced using water brought in from far away along handbuilt races.
What resulted is a spectacular landscape that mimics the hoodoos you might see in the Wild West. A 3.5-kilometre loop track takes you along deep gullies, past tunnels in high cliff faces, and up to where a huge shallow reservoir was built to enable the sluicing.
Under a classic Otago blue sky, the land is baked orange and black, draped with pink and purple wild flowers and hardy thyme.
Few buildings remain, but Stewart Town cottage is a good example of the most luxurious accommodation enjoyed here – which is not saying much. For about 30 years, though, there was a community here and even a school. Until the gold ran out.
WHY GO?
Unless you see it for yourself, you won’t believe how the lust for gold can drive such incredible physical work. Stand at the top of a deep canyon and know that it was dug by hand, that all those piles of rocks were carefully washed by hand, that those tunnels were burrowed by hand – all under a baking sun or in freezing cold.
INSIDER TIP
The water races are dry today, so take plenty to drink. If you go in late summer, look out for the apricots, and later pears, to pick for a treat from the trees by Stewart Town.
ON THE WAY/NEARBY
If it’s a race day, you’ll hear the engines from Highlands Motorsport Park, which is worth a visit for cars, go-carts and unique toilets. You’re spoiled for choice for nearby wineries to call in to for refreshment – some very famous, others deserving to be better known. Try Desert Heart Estate for an amazing platter.
Drive down the Cromwell Gorge to the historic little town of Clyde for a stroll along its main street of pretty stone cottages and substantial public buildings, like the old post office, now a cafe and bar.
The Clyde Dam and power station are an impressive sight, too, and so is the metal truss bridge nearby with its sturdy stone piers.
The Lake Dunstan Trail starts and ends here; there are also other great rides, and you can hire bikes and e-bikes in both Clyde and Cromwell.
HOW MUCH?
The walk will cost you nothing but time and effort, well rewarded.
BEST TIME TO GO
Closed during lambing. Then it’s summer for blue and brown, autumn for blue and gold, winter for blue and white. It’s always spectacular.
See: centralotagonz.com.