Where to eat, shop and have fun in Melbourne.
If you’ve missed all that’s good about Melbourne, read on
If there’s one word you’ll use often in Melbourne, it will be “cool”. Stroll into any shop, restaurant or bar, jump on an iconic tram or meander through one of the city’s many art-covered laneways and you’ll see why.
That’s because Australia’s second city is undoubtedly its coolest (sorry Sydney). Renowned for performing and visual arts, Melbourne plays host to one of the largest standalone comedy festivals in the world, is recognised as a Unesco City of Literature, and has an incredible dining scene.
Need more convincing? Melbourne often tops the most liveable cities in the world poll, and terms such as “classiest city in the world” and “friendly locals with a great sense of humour” litter reviews.
WHAT TO EAT
First things first. Melbourne is a city that knows and loves good food, so dump your bags, change into elastic-waisted trousers and get ready to enjoy the city’s delicious fare.
The late Anthony Bourdain once called Melbourne a “multicultural wonderland, with just about every food imaginable”.
He was right: the city is home to more than 140 nationalities, including large Italian and Greek communities who arrived in the 1950s, as well as subsequent waves of Asian immigrants, all of whom have added to Melbourne’s vibrant culinary stew.
You can roam the globe without even leaving the CBD’s streets.
One thing they do particularly well here is coffee. At Seven Seeds in Carlton, this shrine to caffeine (the pancakes aren’t bad, either) is also home to the brand’s roastery.
Lunch should be at Cumulus Inc, a cafe that looks as though it has been airlifted lock, stock and barrel from New York. Believe me, the chicken liver parfait with native plum jelly will change the way you look at chicken forever.
Kiwi chefs have long caused ripples in Melbourne’s dining scene, and at Attica, 7km south of the CBD, you’ll find one of Australia’s best restaurants. Owned by Kiwi Ben Shewry, Attica has featured in the influential World’s 50 Best Restaurants list.
Ben’s dishes have been called modern and balanced, so expect cleverly inventive offerings that combine his New Zealand background with indigenous ingredients, such as Vegemite pie, salted red kangaroo and emu liver bagels. Tip: Book ahead, it’s popular.
WHAT TO SEE
Fun fact: Melbourne’s 40-plus laneways began life as rear access to properties facing major streets. Many were later roofed as arcades to provide refuge from the elements and to free up space for shops. But then some bright spark realised they could be legitimate destinations in their own right, and in moved the boutiques, eateries and artists.
As you wander through these laneways, you’ll send a silent thank you to that bright spark. You’ll also take more photos than you planned to,
thanks to the vibrant walls. One of the most Instagramfriendly is Hosier Lane off Flinders St, which is like a gallery of evolving street art. Either arrive early or be prepared to wait, because Hosier Lane’s popularity means it’s often filled with tourists also wanting to get the perfect shot.
Other sites worth checking out include Croft Alley off Little Bourke St in Chinatown, the privately owned Blender Lane, and Post Office Lane near Victoria St in Little Vietnam. If you want someone else to do the heavy lifting, sign up for a street art tour.
If, however, you prefer art that hangs in a gallery, head to the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) which was founded in 1861 and is Australia’s oldest, largest and most visited art gallery. There are works from artists such as Constable, Renoir and Dali, but it’s the collection of Australian Impressionist art, 20th century, modern and contemporary art that really shines, including Aboriginal art and artefacts.
“Bring an extra suitcase” is a bit of a cliche but in Melbourne it’s true. It doesn’t matter if your style is vintage, preppy or designer, this is where your retail dreams will come true.
Start at Queen Victoria Market, the southern hemisphere’s largest open-air market which has been running for 140 years. Here you’ll find clothing, food, drink and art.
Only a few minutes’ walk from Federation Square, is Collins St and Little Collins St, which tuck designer stores into beautiful heritage buildings. The big name designers are all here but check out some of the smaller boutiques which specialise in Australian designers.
If shopping malls are more your thing, head to Emporium in Lonsdale St, which has more than 200 stores up its stylish sleeve. There are also ample eateries for you to refuel at. Half an hour from the CBD is the vast Chadstone mall; a free bus runs here from Federation Square via some hotels.
Don’t leave without visiting Flinders Lane. Once the down-at-heel garment district, this vibrant area now distills the essence of Melbourne – urban, unconventional and oh-so-cool. There are local designers, vintage shops, restaurants and hidden bars.
HEAD OUTDOORS
For a bustling city, Melbourne has a remarkable number of green spaces. The Royal Botanic Gardens Victoria, smack-bang in the middle of the city, is the perfect spot to chill out with a picnic basket or there are walking and running tracks by the Yarra River. Some trails stretch along Port Phillip Bay, as far as Brighton.
Tag on a couple of days and drive to the Mornington Peninsula. An hour from the CBD, this is where locals go to get away from it all. As well as sandy surf beaches and vineyards, you can also play the spot the koala/kangaroo/ echidna game.