ONE OF JAPAN’S STEAMIEST REGIONS
KYUSHU, JAPAN’S SOUTHERN MAJOR ISLAND, HAS RUGGED MOUNTAINS, THICK FORESTS, GLORIOUS FOOD, AND PLENTY OF STEAM. IT’S ALSO HEATING UP FOR THIS YEAR’S RUGBY WORLD CUP
JAPAN’S ŌITA PREFECTURE, on the north-eastern coast of Japan’s Kyushu Island, figuratively bathes in its steamy reputation. The area, famous for its hot springs, has been soaking in its geography for at least a millennium and will stay that way for as long as its three local volcanoes remain active.
Bright white streams of steam emit from the most unexpected areas, and it appears that each hotel and house has a thermal bath of hot mineral water drawn from the ground. Bathing in the hot springs (onsen) and breathing the steam is a way of life for many Japanese. The often mineral-rich waters are used in various ways: to treat ills, to cook with, for warmth, and for bathing and relaxing in. Onsens are also integral to Ōita’s tourism industry, and 7.3 million people travel to the region each year to take the waters. Many stay in ryokan (traditional Japanese inns that, yes, include onsen).
Loving onsen is not a prerequisite to loving Ōita Prefecture but it helps. Cooking oneself, sous-vide, to a glowing rose colour in water at 50 degrees Celsius is heaven for some and scalding hell for others. Me? Initially, I was on the fence. But after a week of bathing my way around the region, I’m all in. Partly because I survived hot water and public nudity, but more so because of the ceremony of it and the partaking of an ancient tradition.
Total undressing is required - neither underwear nor bathing suits allowed, just a small, strategically held towel. Washing is required (in front of a mirror!), as is a thorough rinse. The waters are hot but, like the proverbial frog, one becomes accustomed. When it all becomes too much, it’s time to leave, feeling invigorated and very, very clean.
This year, the prefecture will host at least one All Black game (in Ōita City) during the Rugby World Cup. Ōita’s already excited; banners declare the tournament a “Once in a Lifetime” opportunity. Whether heading to Japan for the rugby - or anything but rugby - head south into what the Japanese refer to as the countryside but most Kiwis would consider semi-rural at most. For the record, I saw one farm animal during my visit - a solitary cow.
I flew from Tokyo to Fukuoka to travel the Yufuin no Mori (Yufuin in the Forest) tourist train from Hakata Station to Yufuin, a delightful alpine town at the base of Mt Yufu (“Yu” means hot water). It’s one of the area’s three active volcanoes and last erupted 1200 years ago creating its double peak and Ōita’s onsen source. Trains are the best way to get around Kyushu, and a Japan Rail Pass (for tourists) can be used on the Yufuin no Mori.
The racing-green train has lashings of old-world charm with shining chrome and gleaming wood, smiling conductors, and - luckily on this three-hour run from Fukuoka to Beppu City via Ōita City - a buffet carriage serving Japanese favourites including a cute bento box from the Michelin-starred sushi restaurant, Takemoto.
Four million visitors a year come to Yufuin - a town of 35,000 - for the mountains. Whether bathed in mist or full sunshine (and especially glorious in autumn), the forests are a textured mélange of bamboo, cedars, conifers and maples, with the cedars being the most famous.
The food too, is superb: try the region’s specialities such as bungo beef (like wagyu “but better”, say the locals), shiitake mushrooms, and kabosu, a lime-like citrus that’s seemingly served with everything.
Sightseeing by horse and carriage is an easy way around the main areas of interest. The driver points them out but his commentary is in Japanese. However, it’s nice to just sit and take it all in, clip-clopping past traditional houses, rice fields and orchards, and visiting two local shrines - one Buddhist, one Shinto.
Like many alpine towns, the arts are strong in Yufuin. I took a taxi up winding lanes, lined with homes and punctuated with random, brightly lit vending machines, to Artegio, an art museum celebrating music that sits alongside a café and chocolate shop. Enjoy what’s likely to be the best coffee in the area and sample Yufuin’s famous roll cake - a Swiss roll, only better.
My favourite find was next door; the Watakushi Art Museum displays some of the contemporary art Hideki Miwa has gathered over 50 years, along with pieces painted
by his wife, Riko. The art’s not for sale, although Hideki graciously says he’ll consider “good offers”.
The Kamenoi Bessou, built in 1921 as the mountain retreat for the man who first spotted and promoted Ōita’s immense thermal tourism potential (Kumahachi Aburaya) is a traditional Japanese hotel. Kumahachi’s name pops up everywhere. Look out for the statue of him, currently clad in Japan’s rugby stripe, outside Beppu Station.
Kamenoi Bessou is a 20-room ryokan, with a five-star rating for its Japanese and European-themed rooms. The tatami-matted, rice-paper-screened traditional rooms are beautiful and were refurbished in 2017. They are highly recommended except for anyone challenged by terrible knees (I grimaced my way through).
A kaiseki ryori (set-menu dinner) is served in the room by an exquisitely kimonoed nakai (maid) after which, while guests enjoy an onsen - choosing between an indoor or outdoor private bath, or the beautiful public on-site onsen - she returns to lay out the futons.
Also recommended, a Japanese whisky in the hotel’s heavily beamed bar. Sip the 18-yearold Yamazaki - it’s as smooth as cognac, with a hint of whisky smoke. A morning stroll in the hotel’s mossy gardens can be followed by a visit to neighbouring Lake Kinrin.
Beppu City, another hour on the Yufuin no Mori train, is the sister city of Rotorua, linked by its steam. Visitors can enjoy countless ryoken and onsen, and a fascinating kitchen where they can steam their own meals in “hell pods”, or grills over gurgling water.
Beppu’s Kannawa area is known for its seven main “jigoku” or “hells”. The name dates back 1000 years when locals feared the area’s boiling water, rising steam and bubbling mud. It’s much friendlier today, with those areas confined into seven, differently themed jigoku. Note: the pools are about 100 degrees Celsius and not for human bathing, but do try the steamed eggs at Kamado Jigoku - 24 hours of steaming turns the egg white quite brown and imparts a meaty flavour. It’s much better than it sounds.
Above it all, is the Beppu Ropeway in AsoKuju National Park on the slopes of an active volcano, the closely-monitored Mt Tsurumi. The 1375-metre mountain is ever-changing: white with snow in winter, green in spring, azalea pink in summer and coloured in sunset hues come autumn.
A few moments of peace at the Shiki no Sato (Homeland of Four Seasons) garden below the ropeway can be useful before crossing the road to buy some shochu at Kyushu Shochukan, a liquor and gift shop. Kyushu produces 500 brands of the spirit, which is usually distilled from barley or sweet potato. I found I prefer the barley. Shochu tastings are available only on weekends or holidays, but I’d chance it and ask for a taste anyway.