CAREER PATH

DESIGNER CLAUDIA LI WORKED FOR SOME OF THE BIGGEST NAMES IN FASHION. NOW HERS IS ON THE LABEL

A thoughtful approach to fashion

1992—2009 Early years Vivid memories of the garden outside Claudia Li’s childhood bedroom in Mount Eden inspired the clothing she showcased on the runway at New York Fashion Week September 2018. Chinese-born Claudia was raised in Singapore and New Zealand (from age nine) and trained in Beijing, London and New York. She credits her art dealer and opera singer parents for encouraging her bold artistic style. “There’s something about childhood memories that stay with you forever. Creativity wasn’t something they taught me — it was a normal part of life.” Claudia attended three high schools in Auckland studying photography, music and literature. “It was not the stereotypical maths and science path that you’d expect for an Asian kid.”

2009—2011 Central Saint Martin’s College, London; 2011—2013 Master of Fine Arts Parsons School of Design, New York There was no master plan, “but Europe seemed like the next logical step” when Claudia turned down the chance to join her family’s art dealership in favour of pursuing fashion design at “wildly intimidating” Central Saint Martin’s College. She pulled “all-nighters for nights on end” to complete the world-renowned programme. “I wanted to be there, to push myself and see what came of it. But waking up in London, miles from home, was a reminder of the high stakes of the situation that I’d created for myself. Was this all a mistake?” It wasn’t. Claudia entered an industry that values self- expression as much as she does. “People in fashion believe wholeheartedly that individual garments can transform the way you present yourself to the world.” A pattern-making professor recommended Claudia to the Parsons School of Design. She completed its Master of Fine Arts, a programme, she says, that has a unique mix of high- calibre instructors and professionals behind it. “It was an opportunity to get my feet on the ground in New York City.” 2013—2014 Brandon Maxwell’s intern at Haus of Gaga, NY; 2014—2015 JW Anderson, London An internship with Lady Gaga’s stylist (and then emerging designer) Brandon Maxwell at the Haus of Gaga shaped Claudia’s working ethos. She describes Parsons and the Haus of Gaga as “once-in-a-lifetime work environments where all hyperbole aside, creativity was king. “They were laboratories for ideas and surrounded me with global-level creative talent. I was encouraged to push beyond my comfort zone every single day. I’ll never forget it.” Womenswear designer JW Anderson found Claudia’s Parsons graduation collection online. She freelanced for him for two seasons and then accepted a full-time position in his London studio. 2015 Founded CLAUDIA LI; 2016 Made Forbes’ 30 Under 30 list Claudia quit her job, flew back to New York and launched her own brand. With more than eight collections under her belt (designed for self- directed women), she says the scariest and most rewarding aspect of running the business is having employees. “Every day I come into the office and am reminded that my team is dedicating their working hours to my vision. It never feels anything less than a tremendous responsibility.” The greatest challenge is competing in a crowded market against much larger brands. “We’re exclusively a ready-to-wear business; we don’t make money from separate denim or fragrance lines, which is how the big labels can afford significant runway shows.” But quality doesn’t go unnoticed in the fashion world. Claudia made Forbes’ 30 Under 30 (art & style) list and her designs have been worn by high-profile celebrities such as model Bella Hadid, rapper Awkwafina and Lady Gaga (for her introduction to the Dalai Lama). “This is my favourite part — seeing a woman with the world’s eyes on her wearing a garment I have designed. I love seeing these women make my garments their own.” 2018 First New York Fashion Week runway show The decision to cast all-Asian models for her first runway show at New York Fashion Week in 2018 was widely publicized and critiqued. “Frankly, I wanted women who looked like me to wear my clothing,” says Claudia. “When you show at NYFW you’re presenting a perspective on beauty that is consumed worldwide, so we have a responsibility for those images.” The NYFW runway collection “talked to the world about my childhood”, so she hired 35 Asian models of diverse nationalities. “Their beauty felt personal to me. I wanted to champion it.”