THE LORE OF THE LAND

THERE’S AN ENERGY IN THE BAY OF PLENTY THAT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH BUBBLING VOLCANOES, SUNNY DAYS AND SURFER-FRIENDLY SWELL

The energy in the Bay of Plenty has little to do with bubbling volcanoes and surfer- friendly swells

THE RESIDENTS OF WHAKĀTANE and Ōhope Beach could be forgiven for resting on their laurels such is the glory heaped on this bit of the Bay of Plenty. But, instead, the locals are investing time, money and energy in protecting the local heritage and preserving its stories.

It is a place that attracts deep affection and has been since the first tūpuna sought respite on its shores. People and place are integrated seamlessly — from the region’s historical foundations to the te reo commonplace in cafés. Forty-three per cent of the district’s population is of Māori heritage (14.9 per cent is the national average). And they’re a generous bunch, these sunsoaked people; their pride and purpose is shared with good-natured ease.

Discover Mataatua

It takes a compelling story to evoke sadness for a building — that’s an emotion generally reserved for living, breathing things. But the Mataatua Wharenui is an extraordinary building with a remarkable story; a story of oceans crossed, ill-treatments survived, and a happy ending.

The wharenui was built in the 1870s, a time of considerable unease for the Ngāti Awa people. It was to be a symbol of unity and hope, where Ngāti Awa could celebrate their ancestors and their long, deep relationship with Whakātane. It was said the wharenui was a gift to Queen Victoria, and when it opened on 8 March 1875, it was called the most beautiful wharenui ever built.

Many agreed with this sentiment, and Mataatua was claimed by the government, dismantled, loaded onto a ship and sent to Sydney for the 1879 International Fair. With no Ngāti Awa to advise, Mataatua was assembled incorrectly, with the intricate carvings of ancestors facing outwards. It was moved to Melbourne, then to the South Kensington Museum, where it remained on display until being moved to storage. It was re-erected in 1924 for the British Empire Exhibition at Wembley, London.

As Ngāti Awa continued to call for the

return of their precious wharenui, the New Zealand government negotiated the return of Mataatua, but to the other end of the country. In 1926 Mataatua became part of the Otago Museum. The bottom was lopped off the carvings to lower the height of the building, adding to the extensive damage and scarring already inflicted by multiple sea journeys, storage and incorrect assembly. Mataatua remained in the Otago Museum for 70 years until 1996 when, after years of campaigning for its return, it finally came home to Ngāti Awa.

A heart restored

Mataatua reopened in 2011 after years of extensive and intricate restoration. And so began the next chapter, a phase of education, compassion and understanding. A story such as this needs to be told, and Ngāti Awa has created an impressive cultural experience around Mataatua — the centrepiece now known as “The House that Came Home”.

There are two tour options — the Meet Mataatua express tour (one hour), and the Know Mataatua cultural immersion experience (two hours). Both include the awardwinning light show Hiko: Legends Carved in Light. But to discover the connection and depth of Mataatua to Ngāti Awa, and in a way, to better understand Whakatane as a whole, dive into an immersive experience. It includes a full guided tour, handson activities and a lunch with local kaimoana and delicacies (don’t miss the kumara brownies). 105 Muriwai Drive, Whakātane, (07) 308 4271, mataatua.com