Good From Scratch
Michael Van de Elzen’s best-ever steak PLUS tamarillo panna cotta
As the winter nights start to bite, we celebrate Winter Solstice and Matariki and get a couple of important jobs underway in the gardens. One is planting garlic, one of our most important crops. The second is to start pruning any deciduous trees.
We have quite a large orchard, which we planted almost four years ago. We had a lot of help and advice from Gisborne orchardist James Williams.
I would love to say that all our trees have done really well and are producing loads of fruit, but the truth is we're struggling to get anything from some of them.
We have two factors working against us. The first is salt. During a huge storm about two years ago, massive clouds blew in over the hill from the Pacific Ocean and dumped salty water over the young trees.
Too much sodium in the soil reduces a plant's ability to absorb nutrients such as potassium, calcium, and magnesium. It also causes soil aggregates to break down, so it doesn't drain properly or carry enough oxygen for good plant health.
The second problem is the wind. We have a shelterbelt, but there's just so much wind here – we also possibly planted it in the wrong spot.
But we keep trying. Of the survivors, the ones doing best are the grapefruit. Amongst the rest, we're slowly swapping out the weaker varieties for ones that have proven they can withstand the conditions.
The orchard is also a magnet for possums in winter and rabbits in summer. Both are very frustrating pests, keeping me up all night with my trusty .22 rifle and spotlight.
The rabbits tend to chew out the base of the trees, eating the surface roots and the soft tissue just under the bark.
Armies of possums invade the citrus from the native bush across the road. They don't even bother eating the whole fruit; they just take a bite and move onto the next one. This winter I'm setting Timms traps too.
All this work makes good sustenance very important. The rump steak dish (page 36) is a perfect winter warmer and easy to make. If you don't want steak, the glazed mushrooms are also fabulous with blue cod or sauteed boneless chicken thighs.
There's also a grapefruit spritzer. You'll need a bottle of Aperol, a light, vibrantly coloured Italian bitter that's flavoured with botanicals including gentian, rhubarb, chinchona bark, and oranges.
Yes, it's winter, and I'm recommending you make a spritzer, but hear me out (page 37).
MUSHROOMING WITH MICHAEL
This winter we're hosting our first mushroom masterclass, where we'll take you through all aspects of growing, harvesting, and cooking these earthy delights. For gift vouchers, and to book, visit www.goodfromscratch.co.nz
MUSHROOM GLAZED RUMP STEAK WITH SHALLOTS AND ROASTED POTATOES Get the recipe on page 36