TORQUETALK

They always comes around sooner than we expect but service intervals are just as important on older vehicles as they are on new.

In my case I have several vehicles so it seems I am constantly servicing the fleet. As vehicle owners, especially 4WDs which are more often used and abused in adverse conditions, we have to maintain them if we want to be rewarded with years of reliable service.

Of course, when we talk about service we usually just mean oil and a filter change but believe me, there is more to a basic regular service than that.

Depending on your vehicle and use, the oil and filter should be changed at around 5,000-10,000 kms or every 12 months. OK, some modern vehicles have extended service intervals but even they should be done every 12 months or sooner if operating in the dusty and dirty environments normally associated with off road driving. So, how do I ‘do a service?’ I’m glad you asked.

For a start, every time I change the oil I always seem to spill some so I have resorted to wearing gloves to keep the oil and contaminates from my skin. Kitchen gloves will do, but I find that latex or nitrile gloves are cheap enough by the box (100) so I keep a box in the shed as they have so many other uses as well.

Once gloved up I then crack the sup plug then undo it with my fingers, keeping pressure on it as I do so. When I feel it at the end of the thread I will quickly pull it away and let the oil drain. Tricky but once mastered you shouldn’t spill it.

While the engine oil is draining check the oil levels in gearbox, transfer case and diffs. If you have to change the diff oil, open up the filler plug first. This verifies that you will be able to gain access to refill it, but also allows air to enter as the oil is being drained without spluttering everywhere. Getting oil into diffs and transfer case can be difficult due to their location so a simple hand pump is very handy or alternatively you can buy small pumps that operate off a drill.

Removing the engine oil filter will require a removal tool but putting the new filter on should only be done by hand. Always smear the rubber seal with fresh oil to ensure it doesn’t catch and seals properly. If possible I like to at least half fill the new filter with fresh oil before fitting. Obviously this is only possible if the filter is not inverted for fitting.

The air and fuel filters should also be checked and replaced at this time. As with the oil filter it’s a good idea to fill the fuel filter when you put it on. This helps purge any air out of the system. I also tend to use a vivid marker and put the date and mileage on the filters, although not so easy if the air filter is an oiled one.

Under the vehicle you should check the universal joints on the drive shafts for play and if OK grease accordingly. It is recommended that to properly grease the driveshafts then they should be removed from the vehicle. Doing them while still fitted means that you really only grease the same two cups of the universal joint as the other side doesn’t get any of the grease.

Have a good look around underneath, especially at brake and fuel lines for damage and also suspension bushes for wear. A prise-bar may be required to check the suspension bushes properly as visually they may look fine.

Check the wheel bearing and adjust as required. Remember wheel bearings shouldn’t be tight but actually have slight ‘ free’ movement. Visually inspects brake pads and if you have drums, then remove to inspect the linings. Check the reservoir has enough fluid and top up as required. On the subject of brake fluid, it absorbs moisture and therefore should be changed every 2-3 years, especially if the vehicle is not driven regularly.

Check the coolant level and also colour which will vary depending on the type of coolant or antifreeze specified for your vehicle. If discoloured then flush the system and refill. Check the hoses at same time.

Check the power steer fluid and if it’s dark or has a burnt smell it is worth changing. Be fastidious with your cleanliness with the power steer system as dirt will soon wear out the internals in the steering box or pump and neither is cheap to overhaul or replace.

While you have been doing all of these other checks, the engine oil will have drained properly so you can replace the sump plug. Some vehicles should have the copper sealing washer replaced each time so make sure you do. Some modern vehicles now use a sump bolt which should be replaced at every service. If you get reputable services kits of filters, etc. these often include the washer or bolt where required.

Before finishing under the bonnet, check the fan belt or belts for cracks, especially on the inside of the belts. Give the radiator hoses a squeeze to ensure they are not hard and brittle. Finally check the windscreen washer reservoir and top up, putting in some windscreen washer concentrate such as Bars Bugs.

If you keep up a good service routine you will be rewarded with years of reliable service from your vehicle. Me, well I’m back off into the shed, for the next vehicle needing a service!