DENNISTON PLATEAU IN WINTER
Freedom from Level Four allows for some splendid 4WD exploration from Reefton to Westport
ike everyone else who experienced New Zealand’s first full Covid-19 Level 4 Lockdown earlier this year, we had plenty of time to scheme on what we would do as soon as we were free.
We also knew that when that time would eventually come it would be heading into winter, but we were ready to face anything as long as it meant being out in the bush again. As it turned out, Mother Nature proved to be on our side absolutely cranking the sunshine and we had one of those adventure weekends that kept us buzzing for weeks.
THE PLAN: an overland adventure beginning in Inangahua, a small townlet north-east of Reefton. From here, take the 4WD track from New Creek west to Denniston and have a play on the unique terrain of the Denniston Plateau before dropping down to Westport and circling back to Reefton. We allowed two nights and three days for this adventure, including travel time from home.
THE CONVOY: two white Mitsi
Pajeros and Big D’s Toyota Prado from Christchurch met up with the infamous Jamie Nicol in his Prado, outfitted into an absolute overlanding beast and his mate Sam, in another formidable Prado. To say the weekend would become a slight Mitsbuishi vs. Toyota rivalry
“THE THING ABOUT DRIVING WITH JAMIE: THE MAN CAN THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX, THE MAN KNOWS HOW TO WHEEL, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, THE MAN DOES NOT GIVE UP.”
would not be a total lie. We converged just outside the bustling township of Inangahua, alongside a not-ugly bend in the Buller
River.
After Covid-appropriate elbow bumps and a bit of tyre kicking, we headed down the gravel road that would eventually take us west towards Denniston. However, we had only been en-route for a few moments when we were stopped by a local warning us of a washout on the compulsory Mackley River crossing. The drive to the river was still another 45 minutes, so the decision to carry on was not taken entirely lightly. What a waste of time if we needed to turn back?
CHALLENGE ACCEPTED
But here’s the thing about driving with Jamie: the man can think outside the box, the man knows how to wheel, and most importantly, the man does not give up. The discussion on whether to proceed or not was actually quite short, and as we aired down the tyres we began to visualise just how gnarly this washout was going to be.
Twenty minutes further into the drive we passed another vehicle turned around by the washout. Traveling alone, the driver reckoned maaaaaybe one could get through with a winch and mates. Not that he needed it, but this was all the convincing Jamie needed to deem the still-unseen washout definitely passable.
As we pulled up to the river, we saw the problem. On the exit, a tall bank had been created by a recent slip. It was clear that between the eight adults traveling in our convoy, we could mitigate this hazard in short time. And that’s exactly what a normal trip leader would have recommended. But instead...“I think I got this” is what Jamie said.
Four ‘right-foot-heavy’ attempts were made, but in the end a winch assisted Jamie’s Prado over the bank. Sam reckoned Jamie just needed more skill, and absolutely sent it at the bank in his Prado – and made it second go!
somewhere overlooking the ocean. After a quick bite of lunch and a cup of tea, we set off, only to be immediately met with a Moab-style rock wall of quartz sandstone.
It was a truly impressive waterfall of rock slabs of which one could not even see the actual top. The amazing thing about quartz sandstone though, is the traction. Our aireddown 33s simply ate up the ascent, which was hiding a pretty mean square-edged step right at the top.
There’s something unique and nervewracking about the feeling of driving at the sky, but the incredible grip and exhilaration of the drive, as well as uniqueness of the terrain left us all absolutely frothing for more; which was ideal as we were about five percent into our mission.
POINT TAKEN
I suppose I have to disclose, too, that there was a go-around to the square edged rock step at the top, which two Pajeros and one Prado chose to use. So that’s a point now to the Prados.
As we continued navigating the track, there was rarely a break before the next obstacle. Within minutes of each other we drove up numerous rock features, followed by a slow idle through a unique rock-lined chicane with water sheeting over the track in an impossibly picturesque way. The passengers hopped out many times to guide the drivers over big rock steps and across nauseating leans. We also stopped more than once just to take in the exceptional vastness of the Denniston Plateau. What a special place.
The next genuine stop-and-scratch-yourhead feature of the drive was an actual waterfall: a series of rocky stairs within a stream which also happened to be the track.
The tricky thing was the need to line up the passenger tyre on a spire of precariously stacked rocks, while the driver’s side idled up an off-camber wall. A slip to the left or right could result in a) panel damage, b) getting really stuck, c) a broken CV, or d) all of the above.
While our long-wheelbase Pajero flirted with but avoided Option C (broken CV territory) and the other three trucks ascended without incident, Big D’s Prado dipped its toe into Option A (running board damage but no actual panels), so clearly a point goes to the Pajero crew for making it through unscathed.
As a little bit of gnarly-fatigue, actual fatigue, need for beer fatigue, and the like set in… the actual route took no notice and continued to deliver feature after feature. A seriously off-camber lean within a left-hand turn is absolutely the reason I found a grey hair on my head yesterday, and more than once I got out with our 15-month old to “take in the views” and take a few deep breaths.
‘OUR’ FAULT ‘
While this track certainly isn’t the most difficult one in NZ, or even the Denniston area, we were attempting it with mid-size trucks with moderate modifications, and with the ultimate goal of lots of fun and no damage.
This perhaps contributed to the slower pace of our adventure, which fortuitously put us at the top of the track later than planned, at a clearing beneath a rocky outcropping and overlooking the entire eastern Denniston, right before dusk. This particular spot lies on the aptly named the Kiwi Fault, which must have been the reason for the very cool rock features jutting up above us. And the kiwis must have gotten the message, as we heard them calling throughout the night!
I would be remiss to not take a moment here to rave about the beauty of the Denniston area a little bit more. The rocky Denniston Plateau has a Jurassic vibe to it, a vast expanse of low vegetation and slabs surrounded by native bush in the distance. We decided it was our luck to have traveled at such a leisurely pace and end up camping up here, on the edge of the world. The Milky Way glowed above us as we enjoyed our beers and toasted marshmallows and left us feeling very small and very grateful.
UP ON THE ROOF!
Waking up to this view was only enhanced by the maiden voyage of our rooftop tent from Perfect Pitched, a small Christchurch business dedicated to making 4WD tents and awnings that are as durable and engineered as the big brands, but more affordable for the average buyer. Unzipping our tent to the breathtaking view in the morning made this particular purchase feel 110 percent justified!
Caffeinated and packed up, all the guys got ready to head back down. However, the three ladies along for the weekend weren’t about to let an awesome technical mountain bike descent go unridden, so we left the trucks and blokes behind and hopped on our bikes. I can’t speak to the drive back down the Mt Fredrick track other than to say that all trucks made it unscathed, but I can say that the MTB ride down was absolutely ripping! Just as much traction and excitement under my 27.5” wheels as those 33s.
Where we had begun the day before, we reconvened with the crew for a relatively mellow trip to the coast. Except for one last feature. Jamie is the type of trip leader who always finds one last feature. A bull-bar high rock step requiring a slow and steady foot on the right pedal, followed by some oomph and skilled handling. As Jamie and Sam made it up, I thought to myself “well that’s
enough of that, it must be time for lunch by now”, but I should have known that all five trucks were going to have a go. And I regret to report that truck # 5, one Pajero who shall not be named, just didn’t have the low gears and/or short wheelbase to make the step. A snatch and all sorted – but point regretfully to Prado.
The afternoon was quickly swallowed up by a beautiful bike ride and the drive down to Westport. We found a secluded beach to pull up on and take in another stunner of an evening. And the only thing close to the awe of waking up on the Denniston Plateau, was waking up to the wild West Coast ocean waves crashing just outside our rooftop tent.
STILL FIZZING!
Our group enjoyed a coffee and the beach for just a little while, before we headed back to Reefton for a spin on the bikes and then to our respective homes. During the morning sip I couldn’t help but reflect on our ability to go to remote places and enjoy scenery that some people only see in photos.
This is a privilege that does not escape me, and the fact that we get to take our trucks on this awesome, rugged terrain means we get to see more, we get to go with family and friends, and really discover the magic of this incredible country.
It’s been many weeks now, but I’m obviously still fizzing about this trip and with the tally tied between Prado and Pajero, we will just have to organize another adventure to settle the score.