Otago Daily Times

Levi’s working to reduce consumptio­n


AMERICAN apparel company Levi Strauss & Co is encouragin­g its customers to buy less as it strives to tackle the climate crisis and issues of overconsum­ption.

The San Franciscob­ased multinatio­nal, which first set up its denim retailing business in 1853, is asking its customers to wear their clothes longer and to buy less often.

Paul Dillinger, vicepresid­ent of global product innovation, said fast fashion and overconsum­ption had become a huge problem for the fashion industry.

The move to curb fast fashion practices and encourage consumers to ‘‘shop more responsibl­y’’ comes as the company gears to expand its operations to focus on resale.

‘‘Overconsum­ption, even of products that are marginally better, is still an issue,’’ Mr Dillinger said.

‘‘This is not about crippling the company’s financial prospects in the future, this is about emphasisin­g the importance of a broader, more holistic approach to the apparel market.

‘‘A more responsibl­e way of owning, shopping, caring for and disposing of garments is part of the equation for the overall solution.’’

The apparel industry is the world’s secondlarg­est polluter, second only to fossil fuels. Denim is a major contributo­r to this.

Global clothing consumptio­n doubled between 2005 and 2020, from 74.3 billion items of clothing purchased annually to 130.6 billion, and the amount of clothing purchased each year is expected to rise by 63%, from 62 million tonnes today to 102 million tonnes by 2030, according to figures provided by Levi’s.

It is estimated that more than half of fast fashion produced is disposed of in under a year, with consumers found to keep clothing items half as long as they did 15 years ago.

Mr Dillinger said Levi’s believed it was ‘‘fundamenta­lly immoral’’ to continue to encourage people to over consume, and that there was ‘‘no downside to asking people to shop mindfully’’ as part of its Buy Better, Wear Longer marketing campaign.

Levi’s has stores in Auckland, Wellington and Dunedin and is also moving to offer repair services to extend the lifespan of its jeans.

It first began looking at its environmen­tal impacts and sustainabl­e garment production in 2014, and has recently launched online marketplac­e Levi’s SecondHand and Levi’s Authorised Vintage to repurpose its apparel.

Levi’s wants to see more consumers shopping to keep clothes out of landfill, Mr Dillinger said.

The company has set itself some lofty targets, including to use 100% sustainabl­y sourced cotton by 2025, 100% renewable energy in its facilities by 2025 and is striving for a 40% reduction in its greenhouse gas emissions throughout its supply chain and 50% reduction of water use in manufactur­ing by 2030.

Mr Dillinger said Levi’s initiative­s to try to ‘‘bend the curve on consumptio­n’’ would take time, but it hoped it would inspire others in the fashion industry to follow suit.

‘‘We know the current rate of consumptio­n and the market model of the consumer basically grazing for new stuff every weekend isn’t working. We have to work on the problem together with the consumer.’’

Fast fashion has seen some local setbacks recently with the closure of Topshop in New Zealand, but purchasing habits in New Zealand do not appear to be slowing down, especially in the wake of postCovid economic recovery.

According to Stats NZ, apparel transactio­ns increased by $15 million in November last year, and that figure was only accounting for debit, credit and charge card transactio­ns with New Zealandbas­ed merchants, and not transactio­ns with New Zealand customers of large internatio­nal online shopping retailers and fast fashion players such as Boohoo, Princess Polly and Fashion Nova.

Overconsum­ption was a global ballooning issue and not enough was being done to tackle the dire impacts on the environmen­t, Mr Dillinger said.

‘‘Think of a bud of a cotton plant; it’s a flower: you’re buying a plant; treat it like a house plant. We keep treating fashion like we’re buying a bouquet of cut flowers, not a house plant, something disposable, something pretty with the intention that it goes away, but clothes should be an investment, they came from a beautiful place in nature and should be cared for meaningful­ly.

‘‘We need people to stop shopping for flashy bouquets and go for a good, sturdy house plant.’’

Mr Dillinger said global consumptio­n had already been disrupted by the coronaviru­s pandemic and there was no reason why this could not be taken a step further.

‘‘My hope coming out of the pandemic is that we’re going to embrace the importance of a modulated consumptio­n and industrial activity model . . . and the role that overproduc­tion and consumptio­n of fashion has caused,’’ Mr Dillinger said.

❛ A more responsibl­e

way of owning, shopping, caring for and disposing of garments is part of the equation for the overall solution

 ?? PHOTO: REUTERS ?? Tackling the big issues . . . Levi Strauss & Co is making moves to expand its operations in the resale market.
PHOTO: REUTERS Tackling the big issues . . . Levi Strauss & Co is making moves to expand its operations in the resale market.

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