Venetian chicken with almond milk and dates

Serves 4

THE Persian and Arab fondness for using sugar, spice and ground almonds in savoury dishes spread both East, notably to Indian Mughal cuisine, and West to medieval European cookery.

This recipe is based on one handwritten in a 14century cookbook from Venice. At the time, the city lay at the end of the fabled spice route, the European hub of spices and silks arriving from the East. Just as Venetian art and architecture drew on Islamic influence, so too does this sweetly spiced braise.

A heavy hand with spice continued for centuries in Northern Italy and Renaissance chef Cristoforo di Messisbugo included spices in almost every recipe. A ravioli dish for 10 used a heady ounce — 28g — of cinnamon and half an ounce of ground ginger.

There was little distinction between sweet and savoury, dishes freely mingling together and pasta doused in sugar and scented with cloves, pepper and saffron.

This recipe has only a gentle sweetness and stands the test of time. 8 skinon, bonein chicken thighs 1 Tbsp plain flour

3 Tbsp olive oil

2 small onions, finely chopped

60g ginger, peeled and finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 tsp ground cinnamon 1⁄2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg 1⁄2 tsp ground coriander

Pinch of ground cloves

2 bay leaves

400ml (11⁄2 cups) unsweetened almond milk

2 Tbsp verjuice

Pinch of saffron strands

2 Tbsp date syrup

4 medjool dates, stoned and quartered 2 Tbsp toasted almond flakes

Handful coriander (cilantro) leaves

Rice or polenta, to serve (optional)

Method

Season the chicken thighs generously with salt and pepper, then dust with the flour. Set a large casserole pan over a mediumhigh heat and, when hot, pour in the olive oil. Add the chicken thighs and brown to a deep golden on all sides. Remove to a plate, leaving the oil behind.

Add the onion to the pan and cook to soften but not colour. Stir in the ginger, garlic, spices and bay leaves and cook for a few minutes until fragrant. Return the chicken to the pan in a single layer.

Pour in the almond milk and verjuice, scrunch in the strands of saffron and add the date syrup and dates. Season with salt. Bring to a bubble, then lower the heat and simmer for 1 hour. The chicken should be tender and falling from the bone.

Remove the chicken with a slotted spoon and turn up the heat. Bubble the sauce until it has reduced and thickened. Taste for seasoning and adjust. Serve the chicken in the sauce, scattered with almonds and coriander, alongside rice or polenta.