A seasonal double act

These two delicious double acts make the most of the season’s richest flavour pairings.

I’m frying little rounds of coarsely minced pork in a pan, seasoned with lemon, mint and garlic, their edges turning sticky with caramelising meat juices. The plan, once they have all been browned, is to bake them in an earthenware casserole on a bed of onions, thyme and figs. I have introduced a little grated halloumi to the ground meat, which will feel very much at home with the figs and thyme, while keeping the meatballs sweet and juicy.

I like the opportunities given by a bag of mince, whether it be pork or lamb. You can take your dinner in so many directions, from the most homely of potatotopped pies to something where you have let your imagination and good taste guide you. The most popular use for mince in my kitchen is in a slowcooked pasta sauce — the sort of recipe where time is as important as thyme — and quick suppers such as meatballs spiced with za’atar and lemon, or perhaps cumin, onions and garam masala.

This has also been the first week I have had big fat cooking apples in the house. The temptation to slip them in the Aga, as my mum did with a spoon of sweet mincemeat tucked in their hollows, is almost irresistible. But I was sidetracked, turning their fluffy texture into a lightly sweetened puree, glistening with purple juices from a handful of blackberries, and used it as the filling of a hurriedlymade trifle.

I feel we are between two seasons right now, and I like it. There is still golden autumn light flooding the kitchen in the morning, while the good things of winter are beckoning from afar — the first brussels sprouts, the green citrus and the tuckedup warmth of winter cooking. Once again, the kitchen is the best place to be.