Otago Daily Times

Lack of Central Chardonnay­s tasted prompts grouping

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2021 Martinboro­ugh Vineyards Home Block Martinboro­ugh Chardonnay

Tangy brightness to this, fruit pastille, citrus, stone fruits, classy oak adding spice. Quite a structured style, chewy grip, a mix of white and yellow fruits, toffee apple, sweet fruit yet tangy zestiness, a backdrop of cashew nut. Deceptive, fineboned style that doesn’t leap out at you, but shows its class as it grows with time. 2020 Mt Difficulty Ghost Town Lowburn Valley Chardonnay

Classic struck match reductive notes, ripe fruits sashaying between stone & tropical, a perfume note, clotted cream, refined oak. Rather beguiling. The palate more taut & structured than the nose suggests, grainy, powerfully citrusy with a refreshing sweet/sour interplay on the close. Builds fleshiness and complexity over time, long carry, super wine. 2022 Rockburn Central Otago Chardonnay

Nicely expressive & ripely fruited, nectarine & melon, nutty characters, spice, a little toffee backdrop. Again the palate shows grainy chewiness and tautness at first, nutty aspects evident, lime citrus overlaid on the stone fruits, while the bright acid backbone keeps this nice and lively. Develops lovely creaminess yet retaining an attractive cool quality.

www.rockburn.co.nz

2020 Domaine Rewa Central Otago Chardonnay

Flecks of fruit sherbet, then wisps of struck match, citrus, the fruit neatly in support. A whisper shy, but classy. The palate brimming with flavour, lovely mouthfeel and weight, while maintainin­g a refreshing­ly cool quality. Nutty, spices, perhaps a little mineral, this is all about the balance and integratio­n. A wine that you want to return to. www.domainerew­a.com 2019 Mt Difficulty Ghost Town Lowburn Valley Chardonnay

Fascinatin­g smoke and wild yeast nuances shifting to nutty characters, a little wildness, teasing out greengage plum & grapefruit. A bit of an iron/stony mineral quality gives a cooling vein, while there’s nice texture and a citrusy close. Understate­d perhaps, but quietly fascinatin­g — I’m left wanting to delve into this a bit more.

www.mtdifficul­ty.nz

2022 Mora Central Otago Chardonnay

A nutty/straw/wheatlike note leads, melon, citrus, white peach, a curl of smoke, swelling with aeration. Great flavour intensity, depth, vibrancy & energy flowing to a long close. Ripe fruit picking up hints of dried pineapple and citrus, yet always retaining juicy freshness. Showing its youthful vibrancy with some fine, drying tannins, but already drinking very nicely.

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