Auckland . . . good enough to eat
Mike Yardley finds there is plenty to dine out on in the City of Sails
BASKING IN THE AFTER-GLOW of Emirates Team New Zealand’s triumphant defence of the America’s Cup, the waterfront bars and eateries strung around Viaduct Harbour and Wynyard Quarter were doing a brisk trade in the golden autumn weather, whenever I headed out for a revitalising stroll.
Auckland’s centre of gravity, its heart and soul, comes with a waterfront view, whether you’re overlooking Westhaven Marina or at Britomart.
An essential dining destination to savour is Homeland, a self-described food embassy. It is an edible billboard for terrific food, encompassing a dining room, cooking school and innovation hub. Headed up by Peter Gordon and Alistair Carruthers, this radiant venue embraces New Zealand producers, teaches people to cook, is a staunch cheerleader for promoting local producers — even assisting them with direct consumer marketing.
Some of the current suppliers they are spotlighting include The Taipa Salt Pig, who have perfected organic and sustainable salt harvesting from the waters of Taipa, Northland. Then there is Cloudy Bay Clams, Niue Honey, Chatham Islands Paua, Tonga’s Heilala Vanilla and Ha¯ngi Pork Belly.
The pork is cooked in a ha¯ngi pit at Rewi Spraggon’s base in Bethells Beach, before being warmed in Homeland’s wood-fired roaster. I savoured the ha¯ngi pork belly for brunch, as part of my delicious corn fritters dish, complete with stewed apple.
When visiting the city, you should also seize the opportunity to dip into Iconic Auckland Eats, a daring compilation of 100 signature dishes, as voted by Aucklanders. The variety is astonishing, from food trucks and farmers markets to fine dining, spanning the breadth of Auckland’s geography and catering to all budgets.
A star specimen on the hit-list is Ahi’s Te Mana Lamb & Cheese Savoury. Crispy, as light as a feather and with a rich pastry, the slow-cooked Te Mana lamb is lightly bathed in a delicious jus and topped with mozzarella cheese.
Open just over six months, Ahi Restaurant takes pride of place in the glittery retail and dining precinct of Commercial Bay, under the helm of Ben Bayly and Chris Martin.
You’ll probably know Ben from his TV show, A New Zealand Food Story, where he scoured the nation for the best produce we have to offer. Ahi’s menu has been crafted like a culinary hymn of what it means to be home, championing the diversity of Kiwi growers and producers.
It’s a classy but casual venue overlooking the harbour, beautifully furnished, with a wickedly inventive menu of snacks and share plates, fusing incredible ingredients. I loved the swamp-kauri furniture and West Auckland ceramics.
Try the flamed Japanese quail: A crispy spiced leg with cauliflower, coriander and cabbage. Ha¯ngi Pa¯ua was another revelation, with smoked kahawai and sour cream. The Auckland Island Scampi
Hotdog was another sizzler.
Another beloved venue to score a slot in Iconic Auckland Eats is Al Brown’s Depot Eatery. This Federal St mainstay is feted for its turbot sliders with pickled lemon mayo and watercress. (They’ll swap out the turbot for snapper, if they’re short on supply, to fill their fluffy little buns.)
Poring over the menu, I was involuntarily reduced to dribbling in awe, so I also ordered up its moreish potato skins and also the grilled brisket, which comes with pickled carrot, creme fraiche and peanuts.
I’m in love.
Ice cream fans? For a sweet treat on the run, Giapo is a gob-full of goodness, where it’s all about expressive ice-cream, with wackily inventive shapes and creations. A trip to Te Papa inspired Giapo’s Colossal Squid cone.
There’s the Sky Tower cone and unusual flavours like Aperol Spritz, Steamed Pudding or the Blackberry Mustard Sorbet.
I’m a huge fan of the QT Hotels brand. Their very apt motto is “Expect the unexpected” fits the bill perfectly at their Auckland site, perched in a primo location neighbouring Viaduct Harbour.
QT Auckland has only been open since November but has fast cultivated a dazzling reputation for its stylish design, superb cuisine and swanky libations. A-list chef Sean Connolly (of Sky City’s The Grill fame) is directing food and beverage including the ravishing restaurant, Esther, a Mediterranean-inspired eatery named in honour of his grandmother.
Be sure to nosh on the lamb souvlaki, the taramasalata with salmon caviar and chives — and best of all, the baked and sizzling saganaki (Greek cheese) with honey and thyme. It is irrepressible, guaranteeing you will return to Esther for an encore serving.