Watery escape
Mike Yardley enjoys a retreat at the Punga Cove Resort in the Marlborough Sounds
ON MY LATEST ENCOUNTER in the Marlborough Sounds, I indulged at the magnificent Punga Cove Resort. Its name pays homage to the plentiful punga ferns (tree ferns) that thrive in this high-rainfall area of the Sounds. There are also many rimu, matai and miro trees near the coast, while further away the red beech is predominant. Dropped off and picked up by Beachcomber Cruises’ iconic Mail Boat, nothing beats a watery escape.
Nestled among sublime scenery, Punga Cove is a splendid retreat, draping the hillside, overlooking the jewel-like hue of Endeavour Inlet, backed by a procession of peaks. Beautifully staffed with convivial, outgoing hosts, the range of accommodation spans all tastes and budgets, from bunkrooms and retro chalets to stylish apartments and suites.
Crowning the hillside, I bedded down in one of the Frond Suites, a cradle of relaxation and pampered comfort. My suite was equipped with a mini fridge, microwave, tea and coffee making facilities, TV, decent Wi-fi, and a superbly appointed bathroom. But it’s the spacious private deck, with those gloriously wide vistas that kept commanding my attention.
Heading to bed with a star-flecked sky above, I awoke to an ethereal dawn, feeling transported to the brooding intensity of Fiordland. Coiling fingers of mist caressed the ridgelines and tumbled down to the waterline, recasting Endeavour Inlet in glowering alpine drama before the sky split open and it rained bullets. An hour later — bluebird skies resumed transmission.
Dining is another triumph, with the Punga Fern Restaurant cooking up a storm with a la carte breakfast from day-break to fine evening dining, from its hilltop roost, where menus are proudly assembled from local produce. For dinner, I enjoyed an entre´ e of Cloudy Bay Clams with linguine, citrus espuma, creole and herbs. It was a tough task singling out a main, but I plumped for the divine Canterbury Duck Breast, which were served as croquettes, topped with carrot puree, beetroot and jus. Drool!
There’s a feast of activity options including the complimentary use of kayaks, stand up paddle boards and mountain bikes. Add to that, the on-site swimming pool and spa tubs, plus the sparkling social nexus of the Boatshed Cafe´ & Bar, down on the jetty. But with limited time, I chose to stretch the legs on another hearty slice of the Queen Charlotte Track, striking out to reach Eatwell’s Lookout. It’s quite the
No matter how active or languid your stay may be at Punga Cove, all of your senses are engaged in this definitive New Zealand experience.
lung-buster on this four hour return workout, with a particularly steep ascent to reach Kenepuru Saddle from Punga Cove, before climbing even higher to reach the view of all views on the Queen Charlotte Track, Eatwell’s Lookout.
Drink in that soul-singing 360 degree panorama. The lookout is named in honour Rod Eatwell, a private landowner on part of the Kenepuru ridge, that was made available for the public track. He’s dubbed the grandfather of the walkway. (You will need to buy a pass from reception to access this part of the track. It’s just $12 for the day pass.) But no matter how active or languid your stay may be at Punga Cove, all of your senses are engaged in this
definitive New Zealand experience. Your camera can’t do justice to its beauty. Punga Cove reopens for guests on August 1.
■ www.pungacove.co.nz
More adventure?
A mainstay of the outdoorsy scene, Wilderness Guides has been part of the tourism landscape in the Marlborough Sounds for 22 years, ever since Steve and Juliet Gibbs established the business.
Based in Picton, if you’re looking for a guided experience with passionate professionals, these are the go-to guys. Wilderness Guides offers hiking, biking and sea kayaking tours from just a few hours
to multiple days.
If time is tight, a superb option is to join their half-day guided sea kayak trip. This tour takes in the western end of Queen Charlotte Sound, around Grove Arm, with its sheltered coves, beautiful beaches, azure blue waters and lush native bush.
Because of its relative seclusion and sheltered calm, the marine life can pop up to say G’day with surprising regularity, from Hector’s and Dusky dolphins to sting rays and eagle rays. Generally, an orca cruises through every month. It’s an immersive encounter with the timeless wonder of the Marlborough Sounds.