Queen of VICTORIA
Going to Melbourne? Don’t miss this regional getaway, writes Kirstie Bedford
“Most people think Daylesford is just a spa town where you have lavish lunches, but it has such a rich and colourful Poke from Alice’s history,” Lynda
Journeys tells me.
We’re on a walking tour of the historic town of Daylesford in regional Victoria, 90 minutes from Melbourne. Lynda has lived here for two decades, but she has a much longer family connection to the region; her grandmother grew up just to the north at the base of Mount Franklin. Standing on the main street of the former gold mining originally called Wombat Flat, Lynda is reeling off facts with enthusiasm.
“In less than a decade of gold being found in the mid-19th century, 12,500 people came here for gold and a town was established, including the local primary school that was built in 1865, and is still used as a school to this day.”
The primary school is just one of the many buildings we visit that is still used for its original purpose, including the Post Office, Town Hall and Hospital — all built in the 19th century.
A tour with Lynda isn’t just about standing in the street staring at architecture, and I joke she holds the keys to the city as she leads me into yet more historic buildings — the 19th century church, a former courthouse, the old police lock-up, the convent that is now an art gallery… I feel like I’ve had a full education on this town that doubles as a living museum.
My accommodation for the night is Lake House, and its owner, Alla Wolf-tasker, is credited with kick-starting regional destination dining in Australia. More than three decades ago, when Alla and her husband Allan first arrived here, the property was a steep slope with redback-infested car wrecks and a lone, dying eucalyptus tree. Now the lakeside property has luxury accommodation, a spa, award-winning restaurant and vast country gardens.
The property reminds me of staying at a friend’s rambling villa, and while it’s stylish, there’s nothing pretentious, and the staff are as
warm as the rooms are welcoming.
There’s also a sister property, Dairy Flat Farm, just down the road. Allan’s artworks are featured throughout, while Alla and Allan’s daughter, Larissa, is not only their brand manager, but also took care of the interior design. It’s pretty as a picture, with plush upholstered sofas, merino wool throws and carefully selected art. Even the farm looks like it was created for a photo shoot. There are several hothouses and rolling olive groves and vineyards frequented by free-range guinea fowl. You can stay here too, either hire out the entire property for the family, or just book one of the six suites.
When I reluctantly check out of the Lake House, I head to The Fermentary, five kilometres out of town. Sharon Flynn greets me at the back of a factory that was a former abattoir, off a dusty country road. She’s somewhat of a celebrity in the world of fermentation, after spending more than 20 years immersing herself in the techniques in Malaysia, Japan, Europe and the US. She turned to fermentation while living in Brussels because her daughter had long-term health issues. Within three months she was well again.
“I started making water kefir in the garage and sold some in the local health store, and then Alla at Lake House requested some. Within a month I had other chefs request it too,” she tells me. It’s now in 400 shops globally and she also holds workshops here
teaching visitors to the region how to make it.
Loaded with wild, raw vegetables that my gut is going to thank me for, I head to my accommodation for the evening, the Hepburn Bathhouse and Spa. I open the door to my Escape Villa to find a huge square spa bath that I immediately fill. Next door is the historical bathhouse of the same name, an award-winning luxury
spa that has been welcoming bathers to its therapeutic waters since 1895.
While Lynda is right, Daylesford is so much more than a spa town, these mineral-rich waters are also a major drawcard to the region — and for good reason. There are more naturally occurring mineral springs here than anywhere else in Australia, and 85 per cent of Australia’s mineral water comes from this region.
On my last full day, I head deep into Wombat State Forest for a wellness walk at Toe Rag Track, which I’m promised is much nicer than it sounds. Judy Griffith from Wild Mindfulness Australia greets me in a clearing under a canopy of eucalyptus trees where she’s set up a shade sail, cushions and a tea station. We begin with a gentle mediation, listening to the sounds of the forest. Within seconds I hear the high-pitched chirp of the native fairy-wren and the laugh of a kookaburra. Further away, the wind rustles through the treetops. I open my eyes, feeling a sense of immense calm.
Judy tells me she travelled the world to find inner peace, visiting more than 30 countries, but it was here, at home in Australia, that she found it. She went on to do meditation teacher training, and now wants to get as many people participating to aid their own wellbeing as she can.
Feeling relaxed, I head back to town to Hotel Frangos to grab a coffee for the 90-minute drive back to Melbourne. I drive up the main street with Mount Franklin looming ahead of me and wonder if Lynda’s grandmother ever imagined that the town would become such a major tourist attraction?
Or that her granddaughter would be running tours telling stories of her era, with the keys to some of the very buildings she would have frequented in her back pocket.