A river and so much more
From the waterway to the art to the food, this city has many reasons to visit, writes Alexia Santamaria
Before heading five and a half hours south of our home in Auckland we knew embarrassingly little about Whanganui. In fact, outside of the fact it was on the river and that many friends had done amazing multi-day canoe trips down it, we were pretty blank. But sometimes it’s a good thing to have no expectations and just experience your holiday as it unfolds, with all its delightful surprises. And Whanganui had plenty of those, that’s for sure. Here’s why you should experience it this winter — and what to do when you get there.
The river
It’s wonderful when any town has a natural feature that dominates its entire landscape. Whether you’re taking the paddle steamer — Waimarie — to see it from the water, walking next to it, sitting on a bench eating your market breakfast by it or cycling its paths, the gorgeous Whanganui River is the backdrop to everyday life.
Originating on Mt Tongariro, this is the point where this mighty awa reaches the Tasman Sea. And though it’s all very picturesque when viewed from the city (or from Durie Hill if you want an aerial view) things get much more dramatic if you head upstream towards Pipiriki. If you’re heading to this part of the world, a Whanganui River Adventures tour is a must.
Take a jetboat to the Bridge to Nowhere, do a 40-minute walk to the bridge itself, hear about its fascinating history and paddle back by canoe. The deep river gorges dripping with lush green native vegetation and giving way to at times glass-like water will leave you speechless. It’s not hard to see why the area has been used as a movie set more than once.
The art
Art is everywhere in this city. In fact, Whanganui is New Zealand’s only Unesco City of Design, recognising its historic and contemporary contributions to art and creativity. Street art abounds in dramatic pops on the side of buildings; tiny — and larger — galleries are everywhere and there’s an incredible glassblowing studio where you can look down at the artists at work.
Of course, the centrepiece is the Sarjeant Gallery. While the restoration and earthquake strengthening of this majestic building on the hill at Pukenamu Queen’s Park is not yet completed, you can still see its incredible contents in the temporary space on Taupo¯ Quay — and it’s an impressive collection. If art of any kind is your vibe, this town is a must-visit — and don’t miss Whanganui Regional Museum’s Lindauer Gallery, featuring a stunning collection of his works.
The architecture
Whanganui has an enormous amount of Heritage buildings for its size. The Whanganui District Council’s Heritage Grant Fund has been providing financial assistance to building owners to undertake enhancement work, so many facades have had a facelift and have been restored to their former glory. It makes for very pleasant strolling.
The food
You won’t go hungry in Whanganui. The Whanganui River Markets are an essential stop with amazing sweet treats from Devine Treats (don’t miss the doughnuts), posh porridge from Bestowed Kai, pizza by the slice from local artist Kirk Nicholls and plenty of good produce, including sensational meat from Chef’s Choice, stillwarm-from-the-oven loaves from Sourbros Bakery and local cheese from Cartwheel Creamery.
Just two minutes’ walk away is The Burrow, the local deli for any gourmet ingredients you can’t find at the markets. And there are so many places to dine, no matter your tastes — The Citadel does great home-made burgers and fabulous loaded fries (with the best neighbourhood vibe), Frank does swanky cocktails with bites to
share, Honest Kitchen is a treasure trove of homemade goodness, Maria Lane is perfect for something a bit more high-end, while Mud Ducks and Yellow House Cafe are perfect for a good family brunch or lunch. Definitely grab your coffee on the go from Brew Brothers, if you want to start your day right.
Bush and beach
If you head less than half an hour out of town you’ll be rewarded with wild west coastline at Kai Iwi Beach and fascinating bushwalks at Bushy Park, a wonderful conservation project where a 4.8km fence means birdlife is free to thrive without fear of predators. You’ll feel a bit like a Disney princess as hihi (stichbird), ko¯ kako, kereru¯ , toutouwai (robin), pı¯wakawaka, tı¯eke (saddleback) and many others flit about you on your walk. Don’t miss Ratanui (an enormous ra¯ ta¯ ) — estimated to be between 500 and 1000 years old and 43m high. If you are heading for a walk at nearby Kai Iwi Beach, a stop for the excellent fish and chips by the campground should not be missed.
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