BEST OF THE WEST
Mike Yardley makes his way hungrily around the capital of Western Australia
PERTH HAS GOT IT all going on. With a fizzy sweep of fresh temptations and grand triumphs of urban regeneration, the urban platter has never been more enticing. One of the best ways to find your feet is to join one of Oh Hey WA’S irrepressible walking tours. Under the command of the equally irrepressible Adie Chapman, who has been operating these tours for nine years, a walkabout with Adie and her vivacious troupe of guides is a sure-fire way to get a sense of the city’s soul.
My enthralling 90 minute walking tour traversed a variety of themes, from riveting street art and storied architecture to exciting new public spaces and hidden laneways laden with libations. The enhanced presence of indigenous street art is most conspicuous and Adie led me to one of the starring specimens, the spectacular rainbow serpent, slithering along the walls of a laneway.
Other shining lights of urban laneway regeneration include the trail-blazing Wolf Lane, Brookfield Place behind St George’s Terrace, bursting with swish culinary offerings, and the hidden gem of Howard Lane.
Then there’s old-school Perth that has been strikingly repurposed. Beneath the soaring archways of the majestic State Buildings, new life courses through the venerable cluster of heritage buildings in Cathedral Square. Reinvigorated as a compelling hub of retail and hospitality, the three interconnected properties sat empty for 20 years, before being reborn as COMO The Treasury and its alluring slate of hospo destinations such as Petition, Long Chim and Wildflower. Best coffee in Perth? Paying homage to the building’s previous life as a post office, you can’t beat a brew to go from Telegram Coffee.
Barflies rejoice. Over the past decade, liquor licensing changes have spawned a profusion of small bars, setting up trade and re-energising dishevelled alleys. Chic cocktail spots, cosy boltholes and speakeasy bars bubble away in their tucked away hidey-holes. Adie ushered me to Alfred’s Pizzeria, a New York gangster-style pizza bar, tucked away in a Barrack St basement, this six-year-old establishment has a strong and playful escapist streak — and the pizza is divine. You can order it by the slice. The drinks list is tailored to pizza consumption, with an extensive craft beer, wine, gin, whisky and rum list.
Northbridge’s hospo scene is constantly resetting the table, but some of the local stars in the line-up include Joe’s Juice Joint. Off the laneway and down the stairs, this rock ‘n roll den beckons as your classic dive bar — fried chicken, cheese burgers, pinball, a serious backbar, a cracking beer selection and a classic rock playlist. Another showstopper is Ezra Pound Bar on Northbridge’s Williams Lane. This intimate haunt with exposed-brick walls & a 1920s aesthetic serves up splendid cocktails & craft beer. Open since 2009, it is one of Perth’s oldest small-bars and a perennial local favourite. Whistle up a Negroni at this cultural institution — it would have to be the best
I’ve ever had. Tucked below the verdant oasis of King’s Park, make a lunch date with Cooee Perth, a ritzy riverfront venue, housed in the old Swan Brewery.
After savouring a delicious chicken terrine, I succumbed to the most marvellous toffee pudding.
The Elizabeth Quay waterfront development is an urban tour de force. Ritzcarlton Perth takes pride of place, perched over the glittery new horseshoe-shaped Elizabeth Quay waterfront precinct. From the pink-hued exterior glass symbolising Western Australia's pink Argyle diamonds to the 10,000 blocks of Kimberley sandstone inside the lobby, this splendid new high-end hotel is a triumph of craftsmanship. My spacious king room afforded panoramic views across to the Swan River and the new city landmark,
Swan Bells, a set of 18 bells suspended inside an 82 metre-high copper and glass campanile. The enormously sized bathroom was loaded with luxurious accoutrements, from the half-egg shaped bathtub, to the Frette bathrobes and exclusive Asprey of London toiletries. Perth’s credentials as a culinary capital are on full display at the on-site signature restaurant, Hearth. Dive into the Taste of Hearth degustation menu with expert pairings of exemplary West Australian wines to complement the state's magnificent produce. From the gorgeous infinity pool and bar overlooking Elizabeth Quay to the sumptuous spa with Balinese overtones, Ritz-carlton Perth is the complete five-star package.
With a fizzy sweep of fresh temptations and grand triumphs of urban regeneration, the urban platter has never been more enticing.