A walk on the lake side
Enjoy the thrill of road-tripping around the centre of Te Ika-a-ma¯ ui this summer, suggests Ceana Priest
Blown apart by the world’s most recent super-eruption about 26,500 years ago, Lake Taupo¯’s rugged western shoreline is fringed with dramatic bluffs rising from its sparkling waters. And wedged between the lake’s crater rim and vast forests saved by eco-warriors is State Highway 32, an excellent detour off the well-trodden State Highway 1.
There’s plenty here for families. Journey to the disputed geographical centre of the North Island or visit a rainfed lagoon lapping at the buttressed roots of kahikatea forests. For bikers, smoothflowing mountain trails descend through native forest to the emerald-coloured waters of Lake Taupo¯ on the Great Lake trail.
The highway officially ends at Kuratau after winding through South Waikato. From here, it’s a short drive to the southernmost point of Lake Taupo¯ , where wallowing under the stars in the soothing thermal waters of Tokaanu Thermal Springs is a must-do.
From 10-minute walks to an overnight stay, these summer adventures are crowd-pleasers.
Centre of the North Island, Pureora
Forest Park
It hardly seems scientific, but a pin and a length of nylon discovered the centre of the North Island. Deep within Pureora Forest Park, at the end of a short, picturesque walk surrounded by mossy trees, there’s an obelisk announcing just that. By dangling a map of the North Island mounted on to cardboard bent to represent the Earth’s curvature, registered surveyor John Wheeler found the map’s centre of gravity in 1961, which indicated this isolated spot. However, Horahora and Waharoa have also been considered strong contenders for this geographical oddity. The walk is unmarked from the car park, so peer into the trees on the northern side, and you’ll see the boardwalk.
Need to know: Walking only on well-graded dirt paths and boardwalks. Allow 20 minutes return. Signposted off Link Rd, which runs through Pureora Forest Park. Turn left after about 2.5 km. No dogs allowed.
Rimu Walk, Pureora Forest Park Climb through dense rimu forest to a vantage point with views of Mount Pureora’s perky peak above the tops of mighty natives that survived the area’s heady logging days.
A generous number of stairs ascend the boulder-strewn forest slope to the wooden lookout, passing the tangled undergrowth of supplejack vines.
After blustery days, look for dislodged epiphytes that have crashed on to the path.
From the lookout, follow the path as it descends towards the exit point on Kakaho Rd. Turn right to reach the campsite a couple of hundred metres further down the road.
Need to know: Walking only. Allow 60 min for the 1.7 km loop. Kakaho Campsite, Kakaho Rd, 4km from SH32. Toilet available. No dogs allowed.
Waihora Lagoon, SH32
A short 15-minute stroll leads to a rare ephemeral wetland entirely fed by rainwater created by dense layers of ash from the Lake Taupo¯ eruption. During dry spells, the shallow lagoon can become a small middling puddle, but after heavy rain, the lagoon overflows into the surrounding swamp forest dominated by towering rimu and kahikatea.
Despite the water being extremely clean and pure, no fish live in the lagoon because of its fluctuating levels. Using the boardwalk saves the tiny, rare plants growing on the lagoon’s edge. Need to know: From SH32, turn on to Waihora
Rd for 7km. 4WD vehicles are recommended for the rough gravel road. Walking only. No dogs.
Waihaha Hut, SH32
Follow the picturesque Waihaha River as it winds through shrubland before entering a dense podocarp forest en route to a rustic, cosy 10-bunk hut perched on a small clearing. Along the way, there are plenty of vantage points to admire the diverse landscape, and it’s the perfect backcountry trip for kids wanting a slightly more adventurous outing. Go old-school and spark some family rivalry while playing cards by candlelight. It’s also an intermediate-grade mountain bike trail (allow 2 to 3 hours one-way) if you don’t want to hike.
Need to know: Allow 3 hours (9.4km) one way. Buy hut tickets from doc.govt.nz. Access from SH32 at the Taupo¯ Great Lake Trail car park.
Tokaanu Thermal Walk, Tokaanu
Amuse the family with bubbling, farting mud emitted by deep volcanic forces, before taking a dip in the thermally heated pools at Tokaanu Thermal Springs. The buggy and wheelchairfriendly path sidles beneath regenerating native bush while often getting close to the hot action.
Since the 16th century, the heated waters have been used for communal cooking, dyeing clothing and therapeutic bathing. This hotpot of thermal activity was also a popular stop-over for coaches travelling between Whanganui and Taupo¯. History buffs will enjoy the nearby 260m-long slice of Kiwi transportation history at Tokaanu Wharf on Wharf Rd.
Need to know: Allow 20 minutes return. Entry is beside the Tokaanu Thermal Pools on Mangaroa St, Tokaanu. No dogs allowed.