Oh, Vienna
Rich in history but thoroughly modern, Vienna is a spot no traveller should miss, writes Edwina Hart
Vienna was named the most liveable city in the world for 2022, audaciously bumping Auckland out of the top spot in the Economist Intelligence Unit’s annual ranking. The Austrian capital has proven expertise in lebenskunst, a German word meaning “the art of living well”.
If you wish to experience this vaunted Viennese lifestyle for yourself, the city’s good vibes can be enjoyed by visitors too.
Vienna regularly ranks as the globe’s greenest metropolis; with 50 per cent of the city made up of green space — parks that sprawl the Danube River, sweetly scented rose gardens and rolling vineyards are all part of the cityscape.
Once the centre of the Austro-hungarian Empire, Vienna still takes inspiration from its culturally rich heritage, as well as a legacy of classical composers, artists and thinkers — from Mozart and Beethoven, to Klimt and Freud — but the city certainly doesn’t rest on its laurels. A backdrop of stately streetscapes lined with neoclassical palaces, hallowed music halls and masterpiece-filled galleries sets the stage for a vibrant modern Vienna. An ode to both old and new can be seen in the thriving contemporary art scene, hip new hotels and multicultural cuisine (hint: it’s not all apple strudel).
Hotel highlights While Vienna has its fair share of grand, palatial hotels, there’s a new crop of trendy and affordable accommodation. Hotel Motto (hotelmotto.at/en) reached hotspot status soon after opening at the end of 2021. The designled boutique hotel is located on Mariahilfer Strasse, the city’s busiest shopping street. French Belle Epoque flair meets Wes Andersonesque whimsy with pastelhues and an old-fashioned brass elevator. Rooms are decorated with velvet sofas, upholstered walls with floral motifs and a DIY cocktail station. Rendezvous at the top-floor restaurant Chez Bernard, a chic addition to the city’s dining scene.
Meanwhile, for those who want to be based in the beating heart of Albertinaplatz, where the clip-clop of horse-drawn carts can still be heard along cobbled streets, there’s The Guesthouse (theguesthouse.at/en). The 1960s youth hostel turned hotel was reimagined by British designer Sir Terence Conran. Its unrivalled position, neighbouring the iconic State Opera House, make the hotel an ideal launchpad for sightseeing.
A Freudian trip The Sigmund Freud Museum (freud-museum.at/en) is dedicated to
the father of modern psychoanalysis. The museum is set in Freud’s family apartment, at Berggasse 19, where the world-famous professor lived and worked for 47 years.
The museum reopened in 2020 having undergone a multi-million-euro revamp and expansion. The permanent collection includes Freud’s diary entries, photographs and artefacts such as his signature spectacles. Step inside his one-time treatment room, but don’t expect to see the original couch — that left with Freud in 1938 when he fled to London from Nazi-occupied Vienna.
Art and about
Vienna is one of Europe’s great cultural centres, home to myriad must-visit museums. First on the agenda: the Albertina Modern (albertina.at/ en/albertina-modern), after years in the making this hotly anticipated art gallery has finally opened. This annex of the internationallyacclaimed Albertina (the largest collection of graphic art on the globe), showcases post-1945 works of Austrian art.
Don’t leave town without ticking off the Upper Belvedere (belvedere.at/en/visit) for a glimpse of the glittering embrace of Gustav Klimt’s The Kiss. Then spend the afternoon at the Museumsquartier, where the former imperial stables have been transformed into an arts complex.
The Leopold Museum (leopoldmuseum.org/ en/collection) has an exceptional Egon Schiele collection. Stay for sunset spritz at the rooftop terrace bar MQ Libelle.
The Naschmarkt
When the art gallery-hopping works up an appetite, it’s time to head to the Naschmarkt (“munch market”) in the 4th district. What began as an 18th-century farmers’ market, is now Vienna’s most famous foodie destination with more than 100 stalls selling multicultural delicacies. On Saturdays, you can hunt for treasures amongst the bric-a-brac at the weekly flea market.
Viennese viticulture
Vienna is one of the few capitals in the world with operational vineyards. Locals walk or cycle between the heuriger (wine taverns) set among the sun-kissed wineries on the outskirts of the city, open during summer. Smaller taverns, known as buschenschank, have a laidback, pop-up vibe. These flourished from a centuries-old law made by the Emperor Joseph II, allowing vintners to serve homegrown wines with cold snacks such as cured meat and cheese. You can tell if they’re open if a buschen (bundle of twigs) is found at the entrance. Try the Wiener Gemischter Satz, a typical Viennese blended wine.
Convivial coffee houses
There’s nothing more quintessentially Viennese than coffee house culture, known as kaffeehauser. According to popular folklore, coffee became part of Viennese identity in 1683, during the Siege of Vienna when the defeated Ottoman invaders left bags of coffee beans
behind on the battlefield — introducing Austrians to the beverage. What is for certain, Vienna’s old-world coffee houses evolved into the “extended living rooms” of the artists and intelligentsia of the 19th century.
Stop by for a cream-topped coffee and a slice of Sachertorte from the legendary Cafe Central (cafecentral.wien/en), an institution that’s caffeinated the who’s who of history from Trotsky to Freud. Expect vaulted ceilings, cake-filled counters and immaculately-dressed waiters. For a retro twist, the uber-kitsch Vollpension cafe (vollpension.wien/en/about-us) is run by a group of Austrian omas (grandmas) with an aim to bridge the generation gap in the sweetest possible way. Settle into a vintage armchair with a slice of homemade cake.
An alpine adventure
Austrians love the outdoors. The Vienna Alps have been a popular sommerfrische (summer vacation) destination for the Viennese for centuries. It’s an easy day trip from the city, just over an hour on the train or by car. Reichenau an der Rax is a charming little town set along the river at the foot of the Rax Mountains.
Take the cable car, which sweeps up the slopes to the summit at 1546m.
After a short hike to the Hollental viewpoint for breathtaking vistas of the valley, stop for lunch at a traditional mountaintop inn called Ottohaus, which serves classic Austrian dishes in a beautiful alpine setting. Opt for a hearty bratwurst with sauerkraut washed down with a local beer. Save room for the lederhosenstretching apple strudel.