Retaruke wilderness
Mike Yardleyspends time in Ruapehu in the backcountry at Retaruke Country Estate
IF YOU’RE LOOKING TO have a splurge on a unique luxurious escape in the Ruapehu backcountry, look no further than Retaruke Country Estate, an out-of-the-box wilderness experience, where you can enjoy exclusive use of the lodge, swathed in 1618ha of farm and bush, just west of National Park.
It is the irrepressible sense of the wild seclusion that instantly strikes you, on the drive in to the lodge.
The property is situated on Kurua Farms and its adjoining “hunting block”, stretching from river flats past sheer rocky bluffs up onto an imposing plateau some 500m higher than the valley floor.
The farm nails the challenge of being economic in an environmentally sustainable way by growing manuka honey on the steeper slopes, rearing sheep and cattle on the flats, alongside the tourism endeavours from the lodge.
Glenn and Carolyn are the most wonderful, engaging and disarming hosts — as are their gorgeous dogs, Dodge and Boof. Their background in conservation and ecology accentuates the pervasive ethos of sustainability at Retaruke Country Estate.
There’s an active pest eradication programme in place, primarily geared at safeguarding resident kiwi and breeding whio pairs.
Glenn led me on a spectacular tour of the estate, down to Whangairehe Stream, a tributary of the Retaruke River, where a family of whio were frolicking in the gin-clear water and fast flowing rapids, beloved by these ducks.
It was an indelible highlight to get so up close with these endangered ducks. A multitude of activities can be enjoyed at Retaruke.
You’ll definitely want to savour a sumptuous outdoor picnic high on a ridge top or beside a burbling stream, soundtracked by native bird life.
There’s horse-riding for beginners or you can enjoy a more gnarly horse trek, for advanced riders, revelling in the remoteness and those colossal vistas.
It’s also ideal terrain for exploring on an e-mountain bike, while the extra-intrepid can experience free range hunting for wild red and fallow deer, while trout fishing is also very popular.
My strong recommendation would be to jump behind the wheel of their all-terrain side-byside farm vehicle, and enjoy a blast on the off-road trails. It’s like a souped-up golf cart, but extra hardy, tackling those steep slopes like a frisky mountain goat.
The artfully designed lodge was built for owners Warren and Jen in 2000, crafted from honeyhued mudstone blocks shipped from Nelson. Stylish and spacious, you’ll soon feel right at home courtesy of Carolyn’s magnificent home-cooked meals, with all the trimmings. I feasted on steak, salmon, venison, the very best
home-made bread, supreme summer salads and decadent desserts.
Treat yourself to this blissedout kingdom unto itself on a tailormade escape. Retarukecountryestate.co. nz
North from National Park village, I tootled up to the pintsized village of Owhango.
If you’re peckish, do not miss the main street hospo gem of Blue Hill Cafe, nor their moreish lemonade scones.
But my principal assignment was to explore Ohinetonga Scenic Reserve, an unlogged native podocarp forest that was saved from the ravages of historic milling. This gorgeous slice of wilderness is on the boundary of Tongariro Forest Park and is one of five national kiwi sanctuaries.
Ten years ago, Owhango Alive was formed by a group of local residents concerned about the lack of birdlife in the Ohinetonga Reserve.
Their tireless endeavours with plant and pest eradication are paying handsome dividends, as is evident by the now voluble birdsong and the nearly 300 traps dotting the trails.
After admiring the salivating views of the river and Tongariro Forest from the bridge, I walked the full 3.8km loop track around the reserve, serving up attractive scenery, a boardwalk crossing of soothing Ohinetonga Lagoon and through the stunningly beautiful forest.
A massive 600-year-old totara tree is well worth a photo-stop and a hug. In fact, I ended up canoodling with many trees on the trail. It’s official, I’m a treehugger.
I tripped my way around the Ruapehu region in my trusty Toyota Highlander, courtesy of Ezi Car Rental. Kiwi owned and operated, you’ll enjoy an excellent range of cars, stringent cleaning practices, super sharp prices, and fast and friendly service, from 25 locations across the country.