Beyond Byron
Byron Bay’s hinterland is just as inviting as its perfect white-sand beaches, writes Ute Junker.
IT’S AMAZING the difference 100 metres can make. At the top of Minyon Falls, surrounded by scribbly gum and blackbutt and blazing sunlight, we’re in a quintessentially Australian landscape. Once we make our way down the path to the bottom of the falls, however, we find ourselves in a shady gorge that’s more rainforest than bush, thick with leaf litter and towering slender palms.
Several things about Minyon Falls are surprising, not least the fact we’re the only visitors at this scenic spot. The biggest surprise, however, is its location. Surrounded by Jurassic Park-style rainforest, you can feel as if you’re in an untouched wilderness, a long way from civilisation. Actually, you’re less than an hour from Byron Bay.
Byron Bay’s status as one of our most beloved coastal retreats blinds many visitors to the fact the area’s hinterland is just as inviting as those perfect white-sand beaches. Take the time to brush the sand off your cossie and you’ll find plenty of places to explore, from ancient volcanoes covered with dense forest to scenic villages with flourishing art scenes.
Let’s start with the wilderness. With 14 World Heritage-listed national parks full of scenic hikes
Brush the sand off your cossie and you’ll find plenty of places to explore
in the area, it would be a shame not to. In the Border Ranges National Park, for instance, you can stroll through ancient forests of Antarctic beech that have stood for thousands of years, or take the stunning Pinnacle Walk, which lets you gaze into the caldera of an extinct volcano.
If that sounds too strenuous, relax – there are more than 650 kilometres of scenic drives you can enjoy without ever leaving the car. Or you could take a gentle stroll through one of the area’s townships. Browsers and bargainlovers will find Lismore is a treasure trove of vintage and handmade bargains. The town boasts more than a dozen vintage stores, including Carrington Bizarre, Black Angel and Kanzashi, where you can pick up exquisite antique kimonos.
The first Saturday of the month sees the Lismore Makers’ Market, offering a wide range of handmade arts and crafts. Lismore is a hub for creative types, with galleries showcasing the work of local artisans and artists specialising in pottery, woodwork, bronze sculpture, jewellery and mosaics. You can drop in to see Alan Ussher’s handblown glass, make an appointment to view Marina Cavalieri’s unique textile designs, or admire the art adorning the walls of local cafes such as Fire in the Belly or Henry’s Bakery.
Of course, creativity doesn’t stop at the town limits. Nearby Nimbin also has a number of galleries, or you can go to Alstonville to admire contemporary indigenous art – from both the Utopia region in the Northern Territory and the local Bundjalung people – at the Dacou Quotidian & Quixotic Gallery.
It’s not just art that inspires the locals: There are plenty of passionate foodies, too. Some of the area’s most memorable meals can be found outside the towns – at Mavis’s Kitchen, for instance. Here, at the base of Mt Warning, you can enjoy a superb lunch on the balcony of this airy Queenslander, overlooking the vegetable garden where the chefs grow their own organic produce. Or drop in at Eltham Valley