Amalfi Coast, Italy
EXPAT TALES Kim Megraw loves the unique mix of bustle and peace – and the food.
I was travelling around Europe with my girlfriends in 2007 and met my partner here.
What do you do there?
I manage a photography studio for one of Italy’s top wedding photographers and organise tailored destination weddings on the coast for Kiwi/Australian/English/American couples (theamalfiexperience.com).
What do you like or dislike about life there?
When I first moved here there were many things that were challenging and incredibly frustrating. Going from living in a city to being in a small, seasonal, coastal town meant accepting that everyone from the barman to the bus driver knows who you are and who you are related to. I might wait for 10 minutes in the Post Office queue because the teller is discussing with a customer what they are preparing for lunch. But now that is all part of the life I have learnt to love – it has made me appreciate diversity. For me the hardest part or biggest dislike is living so far away from my family and friends in New Zealand. Day-to-day dislikes include the unreliable Italian Post system and old Italian bureaucracy which means a huge amount of paperwork is still required for the simplest process.
How does the cost of living compare to New Zealand?
If you are comparing the cost of food/eating out I would say it’s cheaper. Most of the products we eat are locally produced and seasonal. It is easy to go to the local fruit shop or market and come home with bags full of fruit and veges for only 10, a loaf of fresh bread from the bakers for only 0.80, or even find a great bottle of wine for only 3. On our last trip home to New Zealand it was amazing to see how expensive food, eating out and even a simple cup of coffee has become. If you are comparing house prices/property though, then it is a different story. For the price of a one bedroom place with no land (space being limited here) you could probably find a nice three bedroom Kiwi home.
What do you do on weekends?
Weekends during summer usually mean work, but days off, or even a few hours during the day are always spent at the beach, drinking wine in the piazza and going out for late dinners. Winter weekends are usually filled with long Italian family lunches or day trips around the amazing spots of Campania.
What do you think of the food?
The food here is incredible. If it’s not fresh it’s never on the table. Italians (especially those from Naples and the south) are most proud of their food and cooking, so it is very hard not to eat well here. It is sometimes hard to get the variety of cuisines that places like New Zealand offer and eating out does usually always involve pizza or pasta. But once you get used to the menu and the way of eating, every meal is enjoyable. My favourite things to eat/drink are, bocconcini di buffalo mozzarella, eggplant parmigiana, the tomatoes, a local liqueur ‘‘concerto’’ made from 15 different herbs and spices, the coffee, roasted chestnuts, and traditional Christmas panettone.
What’s the best way to get around?
The coast is best seen on foot, on scooter or by sea. The coastal roads are very windy and narrow so driving definitely isn’t for everyone. In summer I either walk or ride my scooter to work. In winter it’s either walking or driving the car.
What’s the shopping like?
Around the coast it is mostly tourism type shopping (souvenirs, local products, ceramics) but if you head to Salerno/Naples the shopping is more commercial.
What’s the nightlife like?
In summertime the bars, restaurants and piazzas are full of people until at least 1am, and there is always someone to eat or share a glass of wine with. There are many local festivals (of saints, churches, food/ wine) during the summer months too, with music, processions and fireworks. In wintertime nightlife doesn’t really exist unless you head to Naples or Salerno.
What is your favourite part?
Atrani – it is one of the smallest independent European towns and is the least tourist-influenced town along the coast. It has one small central piazza, one small local beach and a great authentic Italian vibe.