Deli-cious

THERE ARE similarities, of course. Their name, obviously. Bagels on the menu, sure. A retrodiner interior, yes. But Al’s Deli is not a new venture from Mr Brown; actually it’s the first New Zealand restaurant from Canadian expat Aleks Lazic.

Perched on the corner of City Rd, there’s a bright outlook with natural light and a view of Queen St’s comings and goings. Inside, there’s a cute, mismatched retro feel, with lots of window bench seating, as well as low tables and a pair of old aeroplane chairs.

The staff are friendly and helpful, and Al himself is on hand to offer recommendations. Bagels, salmon and bacon are the specialties here, so Bridget goes for The Saint – home cured maple smoked salmon, Philadelphia cream cheese, red onion and capers on top of a poppy seed bagel; I opt for The Mount – home dry-cured crispy double maple and cherry smoked bacon with lettuce, tomato and mayo on a sesame seed bagel. We order a side of poutine too, since it’s one of Canada’s better inventions. That and Ryan Gosling, obviously.

We’re tempted by the cocktail list. Bridget’s watermelon mojito with white Stolen rum is light and refreshing; my Masonville Summer has dark Stolen rum, orange, cinnamon, lime and is cloudy with pieces of burnt black plum. It’s possibly a little too strong for lunchtime, but I’m not complaining.

The food arrives quickly and we’re both impressed with our dish’s main ingredients. Bridget describes her salmon as ‘‘plump’’ – it’s thick and tasty, while still being delicate. The bacon has a hint of fennel in the flavour, which adds extra depth to an old favourite. The bagels are fresh, thick, nicely toasted and a great density.

The poutine is exactly what you want a plate of fries, gravy and cheese curds to be – rich, hearty and satisfying . . . and definitely