Magnificent Marine Parade
Oh, I do like to be beside Napier’s seaside, writes Siobhan Downes.
THE SETTING
If you’re staying in Napier, Marine Parade is the place to be. In front of you, the Pacific Ocean, and the dramatic curve of Cape Kidnappers in the distance. Behind you, a trove of architectural delights. The town centre is thought to house the highest concentration of art deco buildings in the world, all painted in sweet, pastel tones.
Strolling along the promenade on a balmy midwinter afternoon, that old English song comes to mind - ‘‘Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside! I do like to be beside the sea!’’
THE SPACE
We’re booked in at Quality Inn Napier, a modern hotel with one of those coveted spots on Marine Parade. There are 60 rooms which can cater for corporates, couples and families. Most are studio-style, but there are also two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment suites, with a full kitchen and lounge.
Other goodies include a covered swimming pool, fitness room, and cycle storage for those adventurous types heading out on the Hawke’s Bay Trails. There’s also an on-site restaurant, and free outdoor parking.
THE KIT
Our room is a studio with a sea view, which is unfortunately blocked by extensive construction work going on across the road. The council is building a new skate park on the foreshore, set to be completed by the end of the year.
Apart from that, it ticks all the boxes. Free wi-fi? Check. Heat pump? Check. The room has a kitchenette with a microwave, and a spotless bathroom with a huge mirror and spa bath, which always adds a touch of luxury.
COMFORT FACTOR
Overall, this hotel is fairly no-frills - the vibe is more like a motel. But the king bed is plush, and did I mention the spa bath?
FOOD
If you don’t feel like venturing far, you can head downstairs to Ricc’s Bistro & Bar, which offers generously sized breakfasts and classic Kiwi tucker. Just don’t get caught out if you’re staying over a weekend - Ricc’s is closed on Sundays for evening meals.
On Saturday night, we check out Ahuriri, a former fishing village that now boasts some of the best restaurants and nightlife in the Hawke’s Bay. We dine at Mexi Mama (meximama.co.nz), a funky Mexican-inspired restaurant overlooking the water. If you want to get your avocado fix, I recommend the guacamole with corn chips to start - it was so fresh and delicious I could have easily polished off a big bowl to myself as a main.
A long lunch at Emporium (emporiumbar.co.nz) is also a must, as this is surely the star of Napier’s culinary scene, set in the fabulous art deco Masonic Hotel. The restaurant has an intriguing collection of 1930s photographs and memorabilia, and even screens vintage movies, so there’s plenty to keep you entertained as you peruse the menu.
Over the course of two hours, we devour barbecue pork and prawn salad, chicken breast on a bed of red curry and kaffir lime rice, duck fat roasted potatoes and cauliflower mac & cheese. If that doesn’t sound ambitious enough, we finish it off with sticky date pudding with macadamia icecream and caramel sauce, and have to stop ourselves from licking the bowl clean. It was sensational.
WORTH STEPPING OUT FOR
Napier is best-known for two things: art deco and wine.
The best way to familiarise yourself with the former is by taking a guided walking tour with the Art Deco Trust (artdeconapier.com). Leave enough time to have a good look around the beautiful gift shop at the Art Deco Centre - you’ll be sure to find some Great Gatsby-inspired treasures to take home.
The highlight of our weekend was a half-day Hawke’s Bay wine tour with Odyssey New Zealand (odysseynz.com). Owner Gareth Kelly picks us up from our hotel at lunchtime, and takes us around a diverse selection of some of the region’s best wineries - Vidal Estate, Elephant Hill, Clearview Estate, Craggy Range and Mission Estate. With tastings at every stop, the perfect antipasto platter to line our tummies, and great chat from Gareth, we end the day feeling very merry indeed.
For something a bit different, head up Bluff Hill to Napier Prison (napierprison.com), which was built in 1862 and is the oldest penal complex in the country.
Once you’ve made it through the prison’s imposing entrance (you ring a buzzer and are greeted through a peephole), you are given an audio pack and map, so you can roam about the grounds, listening to historical commentary at various points of interest. It’s all a bit spooky, and definitely reveals a darker side to Napier’s history.
Wanting a poke around the shops? Be sure to pay a visit to The Department of Curiosities and Fine Things (thedepartment.info), a collection of irresistible trinkets by New Zealand designers. Vintage lovers will find heaven in the form of Charleston Chic (charlestonchic.com), which specialises in art deco clothing. There’s also a fantastic record store, Just For The Record (justfortherecord.co.nz), where you’ll have a good chance at scoring that rare vinyl you’ve been searching for.
THE VERDICT
You can’t deny Napier’s charm. A fascinating history to get lost in, rich food and world-famous wines… what’s not to like? It’s the perfect spot for a leisurely long weekend at any time of year, and Quality Inn provides exactly what it needs to - a comfortable room to rest your head at night. We were only there for two nights, but it felt like longer.
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand flies to Hawke’s Bay Airport daily from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch. The airport is just a 10-minute drive from Marine Parade.
ESSENTIALS
Rates start from $125 for a standard room and $150 for a seaview room. Visit qualityinnnapier.co.nz.
The writer stayed courtesy of Choice Hotels and Hawke’s Bay Tourism.