Mud, mocktails and Muri magic
Carly Flynn always finds something new to do in Rarotonga. This time, it’s exploring on an off-road buggy ride.
There is no better feeling than stepping off a plane into warm tropical air. In Rarotonga, it hits you immediately as the aircraft doors open and you walk across the concrete tarmac – the majestic shape of Te Rua Manga (the Needle) behind you.
The tiny airport is always a treat with the live sounds of Jake Numaga playing Pokarekare Ana entertaining you as you wait for your luggage. It’s a reminder of the Cooks and New Zealand’s easy relationship which goes back decades and keeps Kiwis coming back to visit and perhaps stay a little bit longer.
We’re home. It’s our fourth time in five years. Rarotonga is one of those places that gets under your skin, and no matter how many times you visit, and the more familiar it becomes, the more dynamic and exciting it is.
This is an island that is changing with the times, a tiny piece of Pacific paradise that offers something for everyone.
Over the years this sleepy paradise has been built up, mainly by locals, developing tourism opportunities and providing the things tourists want. It’s what keeps this island going, and visitors returning.
This time we’re staying in a family villa at the Pacific Resort.
This was the resort I spent my early teenage years frolicking in when we lived here, while my parents taught at the local colleges in the early 90s. I used to dream of returning to the resort with my own family.
We make a run for the pool as soon as we get there and I feel a strong sense of deja vu, and contentment.
I’m here with my husband, Dave, and children Tilly, 5, and Jude, 4. They are as familiar with this island as I am. We happily slip into Raro time with cocktails and mocktails on the stunning Muri beach, watching the increasing number of kite surfers skate across the lagoon effortlessly.
There is no other place on Earth that relaxes me so instantly. Unlike other Pacific Islands, Rarotonga is not a place to see from one hotel.
It’s 32 kilometres. with a full tarsealed road, and buses go in each direction on the half hour, or it’s just as easy to hire a scooter or car.
Muri is a great place to stay. It’s the south-eastern side of the island and home to a tiny bustling mini town with good restaurants, cafes, the local sailing club and most of the activities. The ever-popular Te Varanui Island night is a brilliant night out if you’re keen for some culture, as is a full-day glass bottom boat Lagoon cruise with Koka lagoon cruises. Cook Islanders are friendly, they’re funny, and they love showing off their culture.
Captain Awesome and his team are our guides for the day as we head out around the little Islands (Motu) to find the best snorkelling spots. They’re well prepared for the kids and have small life jackets, masks and snorkels for them.
It’s a crazy few hours of singing on board, snorkelling with giant trevally and tropical fish, and being easily lured into a pareu (sarong) tying display on our way to lunch.
Jude is proud as punch to be asked to join the Warriors up front for the duration of the journey.
There is never any shortage of food in Raro, and on most tours a generous lunch is provided. The lagoon cruise day is no exception with fresh tuna, grilled banana, paw paw salad and coconut juice (nu). This would have to be one of my favourite days out, every time.
The night markets at Muri are an increasingly popular dining destination, and are just a short walk from the Pacific Resort with both local and international food that is cheap and a nice alternative to the hotel restaurants.
As is Coco Putt. A brilliant 18-hole mini-golf course on the western side of the island. On Sunday nights, they hold a family feast after a ‘‘hard afternoon’’ on the course. Tooks and his family have been cooking all day and the feast is incredible, absolutely authentic. All local fare, and plenty of it. A live band strums away as we eat ourselves into a food coma and the kids dance under the stars.
We’re conscious that this is our holiday as much as the children’s, so schedule down time and pool time every other day. We visit the new Nautilus resort and its infinity pool on Muri beach for a swim and dinner one evening for a change of scene.
But it’s the unexpected on holidays that create the most lasting memories, and for me this time, it’s the four-wheel buggy driving.
You hear the bugs before you see them. Twice a day they roar through the streets of Muri. In the morning, tourists are timid, clean, and going easy on the engines. By the afternoon, they’re flooring it, covered in mud and grinning from ear to ear.
And that’s exactly how our ‘‘date day’’ started. We’d left the kids with a local sitter to have some couple time. Which would normally mean a massage and a cocktail (there was some of that, for sure.) But this date we’re being a little more adventurous.
Dave opts to drive first and gets on my bad side immediately as he actively floors it through a giant mud puddle, covering me in the brown stuff. I’m horrified, and cross.
I quickly change seats to get revenge and soon realise the thrill. There is little point avoiding the mud as we plough through the back roads, the fun is in the flooring and mud flinging. We’re soon covered and exhilarated.
The tour takes you off-road and through the old Sheraton. The one that was built but never opened. Visitors to Raro would have seen the buildings, and no doubt heard one of several rumours as to why it never opened its doors (it was 95 per cent completed). My family was actually living in Raro at the time of the build, and the bankruptcy. It’s sat unoccupied and in an increasing state of disrepair for 25 years. Signs have previously prevented trespasses from investigating any further.
It’s fascinating to be allowed to drive through it now and seeing what a wasteland it’s become. Prime real estate turned into a fun park.
While this was an unconventional date day, we’ll never forget it!
Every time we visit Rarotonga there’s something new to do. Or we’re more adventurous. Which is lucky, as we want to return for years to come. To our perfect piece of Pacific paradise.
The writer travelled courtesy of Cook Islands Tourism.