Sunday Star-Times

Eastern promise delivers Forget what you think you know about China, because it’s one of the world’s fastest-changing and most optimistic societies, writes

Brian Johnston.

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You might think you know what to expect if you head to China: ancient temples, mushroomin­g skyscraper­s, crazy crowds, and an oppressive communist atmosphere.

However, if you’re on your first visit, there will be plenty of surprises in one of the world’s great travel destinatio­ns.

Ni hao! to some

It’s nice to say ni hao (hello), but you might strain your ears to hear the Standard Chinese greeting thanks to wildly different dialects. It comes out as nei ho in Cantonese, nong ho in Shanghaine­se and li haw in Hunanese. And that’s before you’ve even grasped the tones.

China is empty

True, there are more than a billion people, yet half of China is virtually empty. Visit regions such as Tibet, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia, and find wild, rugged landscapes, vast skies, and only scattered towns and villages. Even the most populated coastal provinces have mountains and national parks.

You can’t see the Great Wall from space

Sorry, you can’t see anything from the moon 384,000km away, and Buzz Aldrin himself has tried to put an end to this persistent schoolchil­d rumour. Good news is that this mighty structure is mighty impressive up close, with easily visited sections just outside Beijing.

Not everyone eats rice . .

Rice is only the staple in southern China, where the sub-tropical climate south of the Yangtze River suits rice growing. North of the Yangtze wheat prevails, and you’ll be tucking into pancakes, noodles, steamed dumplings, and baked sweet potatoes. In Xian, shredded meat between steamed bread (roujiamo) is the local answer to a hamburger.

. . . and only some people eat snake .

If you imagine every table in China features snake, scorpion, or monkey brain, stop worrying: the worst you might encounter is offal or chicken’s feet. The Chinese do eat peculiar creatures, but it’s becoming increasing­ly gimmicky, and the vast majority have never eaten dog – nor want to.

Opinions flourish

China isn’t a country of repressed people afraid to have their own opinions. You’ll find plenty of locals willing to discuss big issues and engage you in lively debate, and many Chinese are well educated in internatio­nal affairs. Don’t be afraid to ask questions – just be diplomatic when you do so.

The Chinese are ethnically diverse

There are 100 million people from 55 ethnic minorities that range from Tibetans to Moslem Hui, and the southern Dai people who have much in common with Thais.

China is hot – and cold

Consult your climate charts before travelling, because China can be stifling in summer. Chongqing, Wuhan, and Nanjing are nicknamed the Three Furnaces for their heat and humidity. In winter, the north is frigid, although Harbin has a marvellous ice festival. Consider spring and autumn for the best weather.

The trains are fast. Really fast

Move over Japan, because the world’s fastest trains run on the Beijing– Shanghai High-Speed Railway and have reached speeds of 487km/h in trials, though they commonly travel at 300kmh, outpacing bullet trains or France’s TGV. As for the magnetic Maglev that operates between Shanghai’s Pudong airport and the city, it tops 430km/h.

 ?? PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES ?? The Great Wall of China which, despite popular opinion, you cannot see from space.
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES The Great Wall of China which, despite popular opinion, you cannot see from space.
 ?? PHOTO: VIRGINIA WOOLF/FAIRFAX NZ ?? Nelson’s J J Rayward in action in Yabuli, China.
PHOTO: VIRGINIA WOOLF/FAIRFAX NZ Nelson’s J J Rayward in action in Yabuli, China.

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