Sweet spots among hi-rises
Despite feeling a bit out of place, Bea Taylor finds pockets of nature a welcome relief in Hong Kong.
Flying back to Auckland from Hong Kong you’ll immediately be struck by one of the main differences between these two countries; space.
In a country where we all want a backyard and a white picket fence, we couldn’t be further from the landscape of hi-rises that dominate Hong Kong’s terra firma.
So how do you find the sweet spots in this forest of buildings?
Kowloon walled city
It’s always a welcome relief to find a patch of green within an urban jungle, and here is where we heard the first bird song in two days.
The Kowloon walled city park is the site of the old Kowloon walled city, which is probably more infamously remembered as a place of crime and debauchery. It has an incredible amount of history, a city within a city, and a tug of war of ownership with China.
Above being a lovely place to find solitude, bird song and trees, it is a nest egg for learning a bit more about the darker side of Hong Kong’s history.
The flower markets
We all love the thrill of the barter, packed crowds and cheap knock-offs. But when that gets a bit overwhelming a trip to the flower markets is recommended. It still offers the delight of the markets, but perhaps because there’s nature involved, it seems like a much calmer experience.
It’s just what you’d expect, and conveniently located on Flower Market Rd in Kowloon, but for those who love blooms and their alluring aromas it’s the place to visit. You’ve never seen so much colour on a Hong Kong street before.
Nan Lian garden
Just when you think you’ve got used to the sky of hi-rises, it’s even more difficult to get used to seeing a peaceful garden among these buildings. In fact, when you’re inside the garden you’ll see the layers of Hong Kong; gardens, hi-rises, hills – because Hong Kong is a hi-rise city surrounded by hills.
It’s built in the style of the Tang dynasty; a garden meticulously landscaped over 3.5 hectares. Every hill, rock, body of water, plant and timber structure has been placed according to specific rules and methods.
You’ll follow the path around the park, completely unaware you’re still in the middle of the city. It’s the perfect place to go for a place to breathe, relax, and read a book. But don’t follow the exit signs out. Once you’ve made your way around the garden, continue up the concrete stairs, over the highway and into the Chi Lin Nunnery. Again, a tranquil place with a collection of lotus ponds, offers the opportunity to learn more about Hong Kong’s culture.
But the far hall is where you want to head. Five golden statues representing divinities such as the Sakyamuni Buddha and bodhisattvas reside there and it’s quite a sight to see.
Take a hike
Behind the city of hi-rises is a surprising number of scenic hiking trails, which offer the opposite of the bustling city; space.
All it takes is a 40-minute taxi out of the city, and you’ll have a day in the Hong Kong hills all to yourself. The MacLehose trail offers a variety of sights to see, and is probably recommended for those who prefer not to take a more serious hiking route. You’ll see the High Island Reservoir East Dam (and no doubt take a couple of photos with the anchor-shaped concrete structures piled up to comprise the sea break). There’s also hexagonal rock columns on the side of the hill, for those interested in geographical formations, or a coastal walk to the Longe Ke village and beach.
The Peak Circle walk
The peak, by all accounts, offers an incredible look over the city. But as with any tourist attraction, it’s full of people and surrounded by souvenirs.
However, the Peak Circle is a great way to escape these crowds and soak in a bit of nature’s comfort.
Visit the peak, but also take the walk afterwards and see views of the city from a different perspective.
Sheung Wan temple
This is not a patch of green, but a slice of Hong Kong culture that takes you away from the busy city.
Go inside and experience their religion, have your fate told, light some incense and think about your prospects for the coming year.
If you’re game to have your fate told, pick up the bamboo pipe with the 100 sticks in it, ask a question, shake the pipe up and down until one drops out, take this number to the book and find the relevant page.
Moment of caution, be prepared to receive a less than ideal prospect, I received a ‘‘fair prospect’’, but others around me weren’t so happy with their ‘‘disastrous’’ results.
Remember, when you walk into the temple, make sure you enter with your left foot (bringing in your troubles) and exit with your right (leave your troubles behind).
When lighting incense, make sure it’s an odd number. For good luck and fortune before leaving the temple, ring the bell by the door three times and beat the drum three times.
The writer travelled courtesy of Hong Kong Airlines.