The setting
The only campground right on Lake Taupo, what Motutere Bay Holiday Park lacks in seclusion it more than makes up for in location.
Although most of the camp ranges up the hillside, backing on to some pristine native bush, a large chunk of it is right on the shore, with nothing but pumice and sand between your tent or caravan and the water.
Yes, the peace is a little burdened by State Highway 1 thundering along about 100 yards behind the waterfront camp sites, but the view more than makes up for the noise.
In the distance, like a jewel set in silver, a tiny emerald island just out of the lake. And beyond that, the far shore shimmers like a mirage, beckoning you to get out on the water and explore. Trust me, you’re not going to notice the cars going by.
The air and the water is so clear that Motutaiko Island – the only one on the 46km-long lake – looks swimmable, but is actually 3.4km from the shore.
And while you can get there by kayak, the island is tapu – belonging to the rohe of the Ngati Te Rangiita hapu – and no landing is allowed. It’s a sacred space on the lake, where ancient Maori buried their chiefs.
It’s also an ecological haven, home to a colony of native shags that roost there, endangered skinks, land snails, and rare native mistletoe.
The whole area is steeped in Maori history, which is celebrated with some impressive modern rock carvings on the far side of the lake.
The campground is 20 minutes from Taupo township, 10 minutes from Turangi, and 45 minutes from Whakapapa ski fields.
The space
Speaking of the Whakapapa ski fields – there are several grades of cabin available to rent during the winter, if snow is what you’re after.
But what makes this campground unlike the many others in this popular tourist region, is the proximity of campsites to the water.
There are a couple of options for camping – powered and unpowered sites. The unpowered sites are closest to the water and don’t double up – there’s no one parking their tent right behind yours – as they’re on the narrowest strip of camp ground.
The sites seem to be broken up by trees – handy for hanging wet togs and towels on a line between.
The campground has a shower (50c a pop) and toilet block, a laundry, and a very small kitchen. All very functional and clean.
The kit
It’s mostly BYO campervans, tents, and the like. One thing you do get is plenty of space: I only have my two-person pup tent, chair, and my car, but the site could easily accommodate a family-sized tent, a barbecue area, and covered seating area.
There are no open fires allowed at the camp – so cooking and lighting with gas or electricity are a must.
Comfort factor
There’s not a lot of protection from State Highway 1, and there is a lot of traffic during the night. But it’s worth it for the view. The bathrooms and facilities are very functional, with that classic Kiwi camp site aesthetic – breeze block and moth ballet couture.
It would be much more quiet camping up on the hill, and it has a great view from up their too. But if you have kids who love the water, you’ll have to cross State Highway 1 with them to get to it each day.
It’s a little wayfrom the shops, but there’s a well-stocked camp shop.
Food
Bring your own. The quality of the food will depend on the quality of your barbecue skills.
But if you fancy something fancy, Taupo is not the one-stop burger shop town it used to be. There are plenty of great bars and restaurants – and the usual fast-food joints like McDonald’s, KFC, and Burger King – just 20 minutes away in Taupo.
It’s a shout out to Dixie Brown’s Restaurant in Taupo township, for one of the best breakfasts anywhere, let alone in the provinces. Don’t miss out on the buttermilk pancakes with maple, bacon, and lashings or mascarpone.
If you’re doing the tourist thing in town, check out the little kiosk down by the marina for delicious stuffed crepes. The vegetarian-filled one is a stunner.
On Saturdays Taupo has a market, also near the marina, with a selection of food trucks that wouldn’t be out of place in downtown Auckland.
While you are there
If you can drag yourself away from that view, there is so much to do in the Taupo area that it’s almost too much to cram in. A few of the best are: Take a boat trip out to the Maori carvings in Mine Bay. These spectacular rock reliefs are only accessible by water – you can get a boat from the marina or join a kayak tour. Despite the look of them, they’re not old – they were created only 40 years ago by local craftsman Matahi Brightwell, whose grandmother told him to put a representation of Ngatoroirangi, the ancestor of his iwi.
Hike out to Huka Falls. The narrowest point of the mighty Waikato River, the Huka Falls may lack a little height, but they have plenty of power. There’s a hiking track from Taupo township to the falls that takes about an hour each way, through some lush bush. If hiking’s not to your liking, you can drive to the falls and take a short stroll down to several vantage points to see the powerful whitewater.
A visit to the Orakei Korako cave and thermal park is like a visit to another world, with boiling mud pits and scoured landscapes steaming like it’s the dawn of time.
The thermal pools at Wairakei promise healing relaxation for the mind and body. There’s also a walk through a manmade recreation of the fabled Pink and White Terraces.
There’s a half-mile stretch of Lake Taupo, about five minutes out of town, where the water is warm all year round thanks to the thermal activity – you just dig your own little spa bath in the pumice sand and relax. Guess what the locals call it. (Hint: it’s Hot Water Beach.)
There’s also kayaking, aqua-gliding, water-skiing, a honey farm to visit, fly fishing – if you don’t mind wearing waders, and any number of walks, hikes, and trails.
In short, if you’re bored in Taupo, you’re bored with life.
Worth stepping out for
Don’t miss those rock carvings. They’re something else.
The verdict
At the risk of hyperbole, waking up to that view is a pretty profound experience. It’s hard not to feel good about your place in the world – and the universe – when you have access to a view like that.
Kiwis imagine you have to travel to get that kind of life-changing experience, but here it is on our doorstep, just waiting for you to shell out $38.
Getting there
Straight up, or down State Highway 1. You can’t miss it. You can also fly to Taupo from any major airport.
Essentials
Don’t forget: A blow-up bed and a good pump; sandfly spray – this is no joke, they are ravenous; your favourite togs.
The Moututere Bay Holiday Camp is at 2819 State Highway 1, Motutere, Turangi. See motuterebay.co.nz, call 64 7 386 8963, or drop them a line at info@motuterebay.co.nz
The writer travelled on her own dime.