Fact file
Stepping into the nearby Cloud Forest, we are confronted with the world’s largest indoor waterfall streaming from a 35m high man-made mountain. We ride the elevator to the top and wind our way down through distinct high-altitude microclimates, the play of lights on the orchids, ferns, begonias and carnivorous pitcher plants creating a surreal atmosphere. The hallucinatory sense continues at the grove of ‘‘supertrees’’. Up to 50m high, the artificial trees - covered in orchids, ferns and flowering climbers act as vertical gardens, generating solar power and collecting rainwater. We arrive just in time to see them turn red and green for the nightly light and sound show.
Saturday, 7am
Breakfast this morning is with a family of orangutans at Singapore Zoo. We load our plates with bacon and eggs from the buffet and wait for the queue to have our photos taken with the furry VIPs to die down. This was the first zoo in the world to include a ‘‘freeranging’’ area for orangutans, without walls, and it’s fascinating to see three of them up close as they munch away at their own breakfasts. Nestled within the Mandai rainforest, the 26-hectare wildlife park is home to more than 2500 wild creatures, most in open settings allowing them to roam freely.
Other must-sees include the 10-foot long Komodo dragons from Indonesia, the white tigers and the Fragile Forest biodome, where can you spy ringtailed lemurs, two-toed sloths, flying foxes and shy mouse deer as you make your way through the trees. At the neighbouring River Safari - Asia’s only river-themed wildlife park - the resident Giant Pandas are the undisputed stars. It’s amazing how long a panda sitting on its behind and munching bamboo can keep you occupied.
1pm
Hot and sweaty again, I take a dip in the infinity pool on the hotel’s ‘‘sky deck’’. Sipping on a fresh juice from the bar as I gaze out at the city skyline, it really does feel like I’m part way between heaven and Earth. Dinner is at Akira Back, right by the hotel, which specialises in modern Japanese cuisine with Korean accents. I enjoy melt-inyour mouth sashimi and the restaurant’s signature tuna pizza: thinly sliced fresh tuna, ponzu mayonnaise, truffle oil and micro shiso atop a crisp crust.
Sunday, 9am
After checking out the 8.7m-tall statue of the mythical merlion - part fish, part lion - that symbolises Singapore we make our way through Chinatown to Thian Hock Keng, the country’s oldest Hokkien temple. Passing beneath a ceiling of red lanterns, we enter the smoky interior courtyard and I see that it lives up to its translated name of Temple of Heavenly Bliss. The level of detail is exquisite, from the painted phoenixes and peonies in the central hall to symbolise peace and good tidings to the brackets and beams carved with war heroes, animals, flowers and saints.
We find beauty of a different kind at the National Orchid Garden in the Singapore Botanic Gardens. I feel my pulse slow as I wander the not-sosecret garden blooming with more than 3000 sweet-smelling orchid species and hybrids. Our next stop is Little India, where we have just 20 minutes to do a loop walk before returning to the bus. Passing buildings almost as colourful as the orchids, a Hindu temple - its roof piled high with statues of gods and goddesses - and restaurants with smells that get me salivating again, I only wish I had more time here.
Back at Beach Road Kitchen, I treat the last supper of the trip with the reverence it deserves: taking time to savour each and every mouthful of the best laksa I’ve ever had in my life. For once I don’t care if the food on the plane back is terrible. I feel like I’ve sampled more new foods over the past few days than I have over the past few months, perhaps years. And I know I’ve only scratched the surface. Singapore, I hope we can get better acquainted very soon.
The writer travelled to Singapore courtesy of Expedia. More information
All tours mentioned can be booked with Expedia. See expedia.co.nz
Getting there
Singapore Airlines flies direct from Auckland and Christchurch and via Canberra from Wellington. Qantas flies from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch via Sydney or Melbourne. Visit singaporeaire.com and qantas.com.
Staying there
The five-star JW Marriott Hotel Singapore South Beach is in the heart of downtown. See marriott.com
Eating there
The Marriott owns several restaurants in the South Beach dining complex: Beach Road Kitchen, Akira and Media Bar. The Chijmes dining complex is within walking distance. For something more laid-back, try one of the acclaimed open-air hawker food centres such as Lau Pau Sat or Newton Food Centre.