Connect with culture
According to northern iwi, the Hokianga is where human life in New Zealand began, writes Britt Mann. Comfort factor Food
The Hokianga Harbour and surrounding area is the site of some of New Zealand’s most important ‘‘firsts’’. It was on these sand dunes the explorer Kupe first set foot in Aotearoa, and from there, returned to his homeland, Hawaiki. Translated, the harbour’s full name – Te Hokianganui-a-Kupe – means ‘‘the place of Kupe’s great return’’.
The setting
Located on Northland’s lessfrequented west coast, the Hokianga is about 90 minutes’ drive north of Dargaville. Nearby, New Zealand’s two largest known kauri trees, Te Mature Ngahere, and Tane Ma¯huta, reside in Waipoua Forest. Omapere and Opononi are twin seaside settlements by the harbour entrance.
The space
The Heads at Omapere is luxury villastyle accommodation on the site of the Copthorne Hotel and Resort, on the Omapere beachfront. The 10 openplan villas, which opened in December, have an almost celestial feel, with white and pale wood accents, and high vaulted ceilings designed to resemble a wharenui.
The bedroom and walk-in wardrobe are separated from the lounge area by a see-through fireplace. In the bathroom, there are his-and-hers sinks and showers, as well as a luxuriously deep bath. Outside, you’ll find a private deck with a spa pool, sun loungers, and outdoor shower.
The kit
The Copthorne Hotel, owned by Shane and Pip Lloyd, began with a kauri villa; additional rooms have been added over time. Photos in the dining room depict the hotel’s early years. There’s a spacious bar/restaurant, resplendent in burnished wood, which opens onto a paved outdoor area overlooking a pool, and a few steps away, the ocean. The Heads is the Hokianga’s first luxury accommodation, suffused with the manaakitanga Northland is known for. The king-sized bed suites are designed with couples in mind. There’s also a twin bed option perfect for a girls’ weekend away. A generous European-style buffet breakfast is offered at the Copthorne from 8-10am on weekends, and from 7.30-9.30am weekdays. The Bryers Room restaurant is open from 7.30am daily; the Sands Bar is open from 9am daily. There are no cooking facilities in the villas, though there’s a mini-fridge to keep your beverages chilled, alongside a Nespresso machine and a range of teas.
I was told more than once that if you’re hungry in the Hokianga, you must be lazy. The harbour offers an abundance of kaimoana readily transformed into delicacies it’s easy, as Kiwis, to take for granted.
Pluck pipi and mussels from the seabed and cook them on a campfire on the sand, or buy smoked fish from someone with a sign outside their house advertising the goods. The local delicacy is a morish addition to any cheese board, or serve sandwiched in fresh white bread with butter and a squeeze of lemon. Take cash – we asked for eftpos and were given the fish for free (we paid them the next day). Hangi are similarly advertised in the area.
Opononi has a few fish ‘n’ chip shops – we recommend Opo Takeaways. For dinner, there’s a Thai cafe nearby where we enjoyed an authentic spread, as well as a handful of other cafes and restaurants offering breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Boatshed Cafe in Rawene is a required stop for visitors to south Hokianga, with a simple, well-executed menu served overlooking the tranquil harbour. Check out No 1 Parnell Gallery across the road for gorgeous paintings, ceramics and sculptures by local artists. They serve coffee and food there, too.
The Horeke Tavern is worth negotiating the long gravel road off the state highway for. On tap, you’ll find Kiwi classics: DB, Tui, Speight’s. The menu is a short one. Try the chowder.
About two hours’ drive and a short ferry away, Russell boasts New Zealand’s first hotel and the site of Winston Peters’ post-election party, The Duke of Marlborough. Head to Waitangi and explore the museum and Treaty grounds, before settling in for an unforgettable dinner at The Duke.