Full steam ahead for Lake Taupo
Ernest Kemp Cruises
This is a relaxing two-hour cruise on a dinky little pretend steamer painted red, white, yellow and green and looking like something out of a child’s story book. It chugs around the town end of Lake Taupo¯ while the captain tells some of the history and stories of the area, and the friendly staff serve passengers with hot drinks, snacks and a glass of wine or beer.
Why go?
A boat is the only way to get to the 10 metre-high Ma¯ori carvings on the cliff around the lake shore at Mine Bay. The work of Matahi WhakatakaBrightwell, they were begun in 1972 and took three years to complete. They feature his ancestor, Nga¯toroirangi, a navigator who led Ma¯ori to the Taupo area. They look both traditional and modern, and fit perfectly into a smooth rock face framed by the rougher rock around it. Down at water level are a lizard, a mermaid and other carvings. Less culturally, it’s also fun to snoop along the shore and ogle the fancy houses with their enviable views over the lake towards Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro, though that’s something you can enjoy yourself during the cruise.
Insider tip
Keep some of the biscuits you’re offered to feed the ducks that make a beeline for the boat, but nothing so boring as begging from the water. No, these guys fly alongside and will take the food from your fingers. And the captain will let you take the wheel if you ask nicely.
On the way/nearby
Another relaxing way to enjoy the water is on a Waikato River Float Tour, where you drift downstream in a kayak, getting a great view of the bungy operation from underneath, and leave the river for a short walk into the bush for a soak in a hot stream. If you prefer your wallow a bit less natural, go to the milky turquoise waters at Wairakei Terraces for a choice of temperatures and plenty of space that’s prettily landscaped. Or if you’d rather have some drama there are Huka Falls, surging through a narrow ravine to plunge down with a scary display of raw power. And remember that three times a day the Aratiatia Rapids below the dam come to life, when the gates are opened and water rushes dramatically down the kilometre-long spillway.
How much?
Adults $44, seniors $40, children 5-16 $15, family $99. The 5pm cocktail cruise (generously dispensed wine/ beer plus pizza slices) is $44/$22. Check the website for school holiday specials. There are four sailings every day except Christmas Day.
Best time to go
Since the Ernest Kemp has both indoor and outdoor seating, you needn’t worry about rain, but it’s all going to look its best on a sunny day, and even better if it’s clear enough to see the mountains across the lake. These will be especially spectacular with winter snow on top. – Pamela Wade
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See ernestkemp.co.nz.