Coolest ski resort in heart of Japan Club Med’s latest opening is so much more than a ski resort: there’s a whiskey bar, ice village, and wave pool – all kneedeep in snow.
They say the average skier burns 3000 calories carving up the slopes each day – which is lucky because I’ve just emerged from a buffet that could have fed a small nation.
The problem is that I’m not the average skier.
Imagine giving a llama a shot of sake, then strapping on four skis, before sending it down the beginners’ slope. It would possess an enviable amount of grace compared to me.
But none of it matters; I’m in the most majestic of mountain settings, in Japan’s northernmost island, Hokkaido.
Below me, a patchwork of trails zigzag down a powder-white hillside, through frozen forests, and out towards a shiny new snow-covered resort.
Club Med’s latest opening is so much more than a ski resort: there’s a whiskey bar nestled in the woods, an idyllic ice village – complete with ice chapel – and a huge indoor wave pool.
And it’s all combined with an intoxicating dash of Japanese culture.
It’s Club Med’s 26th ski opening (the vast majority are in Europe) and this one is easily a contender for the coolest ski resort in the world.
If you know what you’re doing on the slopes – you’ll be in your element here. Twenty-nine ski trails, from beginner to advanced, are all covered in Japan’s best ‘‘champagne powder’’ – that’s very light and fluffy snow that feels a lot like icing sugar.
If you don’t know what you’re doing, you’ll equally be in your element with more than 70 ski and snowboard instructors ready to nurture even the most unco-ordinated.
The obvious question is why would you head to northern Japan to go skiing when there are plenty of ski slopes closer to home?
The answer arrived as we approached Obihiro Airport, an hourand-a-half north of Tokyo.
This is a winter wonderland of epic proportions. Every building is covered with almost a metre of snow; a crisscross of black lines indicate the few roads that are open and primeval forests stand snap frozen. The scene is so mesmerising you can’t help but forget everything and be in the moment.
Northern Japan is the perfect place to find lots of snow: the freezing air from Siberia swoops down past the Sea of Japan, where it picks up moisture, before falling as snow almost daily during winter.
As we climb slowly into the hills and the ever-intensifying scenes of winter, we reach Club Med on the side of Tomamu mountain.
The resort promises that you can skiin, ski-out – meaning your pre-fitted gear is ready in your locker the moment you arrive. Your lift passes are also ready, and you can even pre-book lessons; so you can literally be on the slopes 10 minutes after you arrive.
Or like me, you could head to the huge buffet to help build your energy for the afternoon ahead.
Club Med is serious about its food. A few years ago, the resort chain was struggling and decided to go upmarket, targeting the premium consumer. Its buffet has super-sized and the quality increased too.
On any day you’ll find more than 100 items to choose from, including locally made Hokkaido blue cheese and crackers to tender cooked Beef Wellington or salmon gravlax. There’s even an Italian pizza chef trying to keep up with the demand for his delicious creations.
After dinner, feast your taste buds on more than 20 desserts, including dark chocolate mousse with mandarin brulee, or a white chocolate fountain with marshmallows for dipping. And to top it all off, there are 12 types of homemade bread, including Club Med’s famed white chocolate loaf.
Remember, with freezing temperatures, your body uses extra calories to warm up, so the buffet is being put to excellent use. Surely I’ll be in danger of hypothermia unless I do another round?
If you don’t fancy all-you-can-eat, you can head to the speciality restaurant, which features Japanese yakiniku (grilled meat). There’s also a chic whiskey and sake bar nestled in the woods, accessed by a long snowcovered glass passage. Or if you just need to warm the soul, there’s unlimited hot chocolate in the cosy library overlooking the ski field. It’s all included in the price.
Before long the majesty of the mountains will draw you out to the slopes. Club Med shares the slopes with a nearby resort, and that’s it. Unlike popular trails in Europe, where dozens of resorts can be attached to a mountain with long queues at the lifts, there is no wait time here.