Northern life for ‘love refugee’
Paul Davis followed his girlfriend to Scandinavia and has made himself at home amid the snow and winter activities.
Where are you from?
I was born in Takapuna but lived in Christchurch, Nelson and Balclutha.
What inspired your move, and how long have you been there?
I was sick of the overpriced renting, electricity and substandard housing. Plus, I had a Swedish girlfriend. In Sweden, I get called a ‘‘love refugee’’. I moved in November 2014.
What do you do there?
I’m a teacher. I teach physics in an international school in Stockholm.
What are the greatest advantages to living there?
It is a real ‘‘modern city’’, a city with a cheap transport system. I pay 860 krona ($137) a month and this gives me access to the entire SL network. That includes all the trains and trams, buses and ferries around the greater Stockholm area. The cost of living isn’t much different from New Zealand. Yes, food is more expensive, but eating out is about the same. Petrol is about the same as well. School-aged children they get school lunch free every day. You never have to make sandwiches again. And a teenager gets 1050 krona a month to go to high school.
Disadvantages?
Of course, language is an issue. Although you can go anywhere (almost) and have a conversation in English. Housing is difficult to get and there’s often a slight hint of racism if you’re trying to rent. As a white New Zealander, I am classed as an ‘‘invisible migrant’’ and we’re more tolerated. This is a sad and harsh reality here – people are anti-migrants. Renting is on a par with Auckland prices and you often get a very small area. However, interest rates are below 2 per cent so it is a good time to buy.
How expensive is it compared to New Zealand? How much is a beer?
A beer in a pub will set you back at least 50 krona. The booze shops are run by a government organisation called Systembolaget. Beer or wine in the supermarket has to be 3.5 per cent or less in alcohol volume.
What do you do in your spare time?
Well, I just had a baby, so soon I will have lots of spare time! A baby here gets you and your partner 485 days of parental leave combined. We just took a trip to New Zealand and I took 15 days of my parental leave and the rest was Christmas holidays. My partner hasn’t worked since May last year and we still have most of our income. The system is amazing. The winter can be a bit miserable, very grey. But when the snow comes, everything picks up, the cross-country skiers get out and the town comes to life.
My favourite activity is buying a season pass to Grona Lund, a theme park in Stockholm’s city centre. There are about 50 concerts there over the summer season. The ticket costs 270 krona for the year and you can go to as many concerts as you like.
What’s the local delicacy and would you recommend it?
I did try surstromming [the fermented fish]. I can’t say it was wonderful. But skagen (shrimp cocktail essentially) is really nice. Crayfish in mid summer is wonderful. And cheap salmon – the best is gravadlax. Not smoked, just cured in a salt and dill mixture. Hot dog stands are everywhere and prices range from 10 krona.
Easiest way to get around?
In Stockholm, a monthly SL ticket gives you unlimited rides on buses, trains, ferries. You can get anywhere in the city and as far north as Uppsala.
What’s the shopping like?
I don’t shop. Everywhere in Sweden you queue. Always look for the electronic number dispenser, click it and wait.
Best after-dark activity?
Go north and look at the Northern Lights.
Best time of year to visit?
Summer, the never-ending daytime. Or winter, the never-ending night time. Summer isn’t that warm. It is OK, but you won’t bake to a crisp. Watch out for ticks if you’re bushwalking but the compensation with bushwalking is the endless supply of blueberries, lingon and, if you’re lucky, hjortron.
What are the top three things you recommend for visitors?
The culture is amazing – centuries-old buildings and amazing streets. Gamla Stan in Stockholm is a great day out. Get into the bush and immerse yourself. There are even saunas by the lakes. If you visit in winter, the Ice Palace and northern lights.
Besides family and friends, what do you miss most about home?
The sandy beaches, the fishing, righthand drives, courtesy and manners.
How easy is it for you to get back to New Zealand?
Expensive and near impossible. That 17-hour flight from Doha is horrific.
For Kiwis looking to move there, which industries are seeking fresh talent?
Well, teaching is always good. If you know an expat who wants to share inside knowledge of their home away from home, email travel@stuff. co.nz with Expat in the subject line.