History and high life in Hobart
With everything from colonial architecture to fine food and art to enjoy, Tasmania’s captivating capital city is a small but perfectly formed delight, writes Josie Steenhart.
Unspoiled nature, almost palpable history, a hit of the utterly contemporary, luxury twists and a perfectly accessible size make Hobart the perfect spot for a long weekend.
The setting
Hobart is a waterside city with a population of just 200,000, but one that wears its history on its sleeve. With the well-preserved Georgian, Victorian and Edwardian architecture all sitting under the watchful eye of the towering Mt Wellington, it’s easy to imagine yourself transported back in time to the 1800s when the city was a British penal colony and outpost for whalers, sailors and unsavoury and (very) pioneering types.
On the flipside, the little city has a developing contemporary aspect, which seems to have stemmed largely from the opening in 2011 of the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA), Australia’s largest privately funded museum and a wonder of imagination and creativity. With growing numbers coming to Hobart to visit MONA, more modern jewels such as MACQ01 hotel, have been popping up to cater for the hip new crowds.
Comfort factor
MACQ01 is top-end luxury with a laidback feel – spacious rooms impeccably furnished with comfort in mind, bathrooms that could only be described as gorgeous, and huge, cloud-like beds laid with fluffy, locallywoven throws.
Most of the rooms offer incredible waterfront views and all have balconies – the perfect spot to watch the sun set over the sparkling harbour with a drop of Tassie beer, whisky, wine or cider in hand.
Food
While not all hotel restaurants are created equal, here you really need go no further than downstairs for even more of that sparkling, relaxed charm and those incredible views. The focus at Old Wharf, as you might expect, is on locally sourced ingredients and the latest catch. If it’s just a bite, a cocktail and a bit of friendly banter you’re after, there’s also the understated yet stylish Story Bar.
A short stroll back up the wharf you’ll find a handful of Hobart’s most popular eateries – Peacock & Jones, Landscape, Frank, Pearl + Co and The Drunken Admiral, to name a few. Or if, like me, you want to use your beautiful room to its fullest potential (did I mention the tub?), or you don’t feel like spending a lot, a less than fiveminute walk from the hotel will have you at Constitution Dock, where a strip of floating fish ‘n’ chipperies offer the goods to take away for under $15 a meal. Flippers and Fishy Business both came recommended.
For a relaxed lunch, try one of Hobart’s famous markets – Farm Gate on a Sunday or Salamanca on a Saturday, which boasts nearly 300 stalls of artisan goods, produce and knick knacks. I sampled my first wallaby burrito at the Salamanca markets and washed it down with a freshly squeezed apple juice, another Tassie special (apples are big here).
Worth stepping out for
Hobart is small but it pays to have wheels if you want to take in all the sights. East Coast Rentals has a fleet of shiny, reliable models to choose from and is located right by Hobart airport.
My first outing was to the summit of Mt Wellington, a daringly winding but gaspingly dramatic scenic drive, which has spectacular, 360-degree views over Hobart once you reach the top.
Take warm clothing as you’d be surprised (I was) by just how much the temperature plummets as you rise, not to mention the powerful winds. If you do find yourself chilled, stop at shipping container cafe Lost Freight halfway up the mountain for a hot chocolate.
No visit to Hobart would really be complete without taking in some kind of convict history. I visited the sites of two of the most notorious historical prisons on the island, the Cascades Female Factory, which sits just 10 minutes drive from the city centre, and Port Arthur, a largely scenic 90 minutes. While not much remains of the women’s prison other than its walls and the matron’s cottage, it’s well worth a visit. A guided tour helps piece together what was where and what it would have been like to be incarcerated there.
Port Arthur, the site of one of the most notorious male prisons of the time as well as a small township of free settlers, is another kettle of fish altogether, as while a lot of the buildings were razed by fires in the 1890s, many remain, and it’s worth devoting a day to if you have time.
The name on everyone’s lips in the past few years when talking about reasons to visit Hobart? MONA, the Museum of Old and New Art is guaranteed to be unlike any art museum you’ve been to before. It’s difficult to describe the experience of visiting, you just need to do so for yourself.
While you can drive there, I highly recommend jumping aboard the customised, camouflage-painted catamaran for a 25-minute harbour cruise. Sit upstairs on sheep (you’ll see) or splash a little more cash and ride in the ‘‘Posh Pit’’, where complimentary drinks and canape´s await in an exclusive lounge bar with a private front deck.
The verdict
Even though there are no direct flights from New Zealand to Tasmania (you have to fly via Melbourne) it’s worth making the effort. My first trip to Tasmania was everything I’d anticipated and unlike anywhere I’ve been before. It’s the perfect spot for a long weekend.
❚ The writer was a guest of MACQ01 and East Coast Rentals.