On shore leave
From a cruise-ship deck, our scenery is splendid but our port towns have plenty to offer. Here’s what to do in our top 10 destinations, writes Brian Johnston.
I’d be hard-pressed to nominate my favourite New Zealand port, which says a lot about cruising our rumpled, irrepressibly scenic coast. Auckland has bulky islands, blue skyscrapers and cloud-scattered skies. Akaroa’s bay has milky-blue water and brown hills sculpted by exuberant volcanic eruptions. Sail into Dunedin and you’re so close to the landscape you could almost lean over the railings and pluck washing from a garden.
No surprise, then, that in a survey of Princess Cruises passengers, eight of the top 20 favourite Pacific ports for 2016 were in New Zealand, and Fiordland took out No 1 spot.
Here are just some of its port highlights.
Auckland
Our largest, most vibrant city is enlivened by a multicultural population and impressive cafe and restaurant scene. Check out seaside suburb Devonport, the Sky Tower and nightlife spots at the Viaduct Basin and Ponsonby Rd. Kids will appreciate Kelly Tarlton’s Sea Life Aquarium, with its sharks, stingrays and penguins. The city is surrounded by superb water vistas, volcanic landscapes and islands, making for a splendid cruise arrival.
Don’t miss
Seafaring history is showcased at the terrific National Maritime Museum, where experts repair traditional wooden boats. Auckland War Memorial Museum includes displays on volcanoes, native wildlife and Ma¯ori culture, while Auckland Art Gallery showcases New Zealand landscape paintings and striking portraits of Ma¯ori warriors.
Shore excursions
Do a highlights tour, or take an excursion focusing on Devonport or various museums. Visit Waiheke Island for winery visits or zip-lining. You can get beyond the city on coastal ecotours, and explore the famous glowworm-illuminated Waitomo Caves.
Need to know
Many New Zealand itineraries start or finish in Auckland, or cruise round-trip from the city. Among them is a 13-day New Zealand cruise round-trip from Auckland departing November 24, 2018. See princess.com
Dunedin (Port Chalmers) What to see
This South Island hillside city makes the most of its Scottish heritage and might remind you in architectural look (and nippy weather) of Edinburgh. Though 13 kilometres from where you dock in Port Chalmers, the city is easy to get around. The Otago Museum and botanic gardens are well worth visiting, and there’s good shopping.
Don’t miss
Dunedin has an impressive ensemble of Victorian-era architecture: pop into the elaborate train station for floor mosaics and stained glass. Olveston House is a 35-room mansion crammed with Edwardian knick-knackery, from bronzes to ceramics, and has a forestfull of oak carving. Twenty minutes outside town, 1870s Larnach Castle is a baronial folly, gloriously out of place on the Otago Peninsula.
Shore excursions
Visit either Olveston House or Larnach Castle on popular shore excursions. Lovers of train rides and scenery should consider an excursion into the Taieri Gorge. The Otago Peninsula provides penguins and albatross, and Speight’s Brewery offers a look at beermaking followed by a pub lunch.
Napier What to see
Rebuilt after a 1930s earthquake, Napier is one of the world’s showcases of art deco architecture, and is lovely to walk around. Many facades have original signage and art deco motifs, occasionally influenced by local Ma¯ori art. Some 140 heritage buildings remain, surrounded by pretty rosefilled gardens. The National Aquarium has a rich collection of sea creatures, plus kiwi.
Don’t miss
The architecture is impressive, but outshone by the natural beauty of surrounding Hawke’s Bay region, with its balmy Mediterranean-style climate, extravagant beaches, lush orchards, vineyards and teeming birdlife. Views are spectacular from the summit of Te Mata – leap off with a paraglider if you dare. The glacier-gouged gorges of the Mohaka River are a white-water rafting thrill.
Shore excursions
A city drive, walk or road-train ride highlights Napier’s art deco heritage, or you could focus on Ma¯ori history at Hakikino Conservation Reserve. Foodies will enjoy excursions to Hawke’s Bay wine country or one of the area’s chocolate producers. For a natural encounter, head to Cape Kidnappers, renowned for its huge gannet colonies.
Wellington What to see
Despite its size, the ‘‘world’s coolest little capital’’ is lively and occasionally avant-garde, with an impressive collection of cultural venues and cafes and watery vistas everywhere – especially from the top of its iconic red cable-car and adjacent botanic gardens. Take in the Beehive, colonial buildings on plunging streets and Old St Paul’s Cathedral with its unusual wooden ceiling.
Don’t miss
World-class Te Papa Museum, right on the waterfront, gives you an interactive, hi-tech overview of this nation’s geology, wildlife and environment, and Ma¯ori and European history. Simulators allow you to experience an earthquake, try virtualreality bungy-jumping, and ride on a whale’s back. There’s also a fun Discovery Centre for children.
Shore excursions
Within the city, shore excursions focus on the cable-car train ride and Te Papa Museum, where you could be tempted into a behind-the-scenes tour. Beyond, take a Lord of the Rings tour, visit a wind farm and seal colonies, or quad bike through glorious coastal scenery.
Akaroa What to see
Charming Akaroa sits on a magnificent bay where cruise ships anchor and is associated with French explorers, hence the French names, pastries and cemetery. But you’re spoilt for choice as this is also the access port (via the impossibly scenic Banks Peninsula) to Christchurch, which is finally getting its mojo back after the 2011 earthquakes.
Don’t miss
You’d think an 1880 house built for Akaroa’s bank manager would be uninteresting, but current eccentric artist-owner Josie Martin has had the historic house painted pink and as a result of her influence, the gardens erupt in giant sculptures and colourful mosaics. You’ll be startled and smiling, and kids will love this Alice in Wonderland-style place, now called the Giant’s House.
Shore excursions
Penguins, fur seals and dolphins are encountered on a nature cruise on Akaroa’s bay. Take a coach around the Banks Peninsula or a train into the Southern Alps for stunning landscapes. You can also visit sheep farms, wonder at Lord of the Rings backdrops or experience the delights of Christchurch.
More information
Many itineraries from princess.com call at these ports, including those cruises that take in Australia and New Zealand. – Traveller